I don't think a 2% bio will make that much difference, especially when compared to ATF or 2-stroke oil. I agree performance will change if you are running 20% or more but I doubt 2% will be noticeable at all. Plus this is the best lubricity you can buy, and it is absolutely the cheapest!
See if you can find biodiesel. Best lubricity available and cheapest price (well cheaper than buying branded products). Also keeps stuff clean. Locally (for me) biodiesel is available for $1.15 a liter vs $1.25 for regular diesel.
I have done this too but understand that while leaving the pulley in place is doable but a huge PITA. You will end up with the the bottom bolt head rounded off. Spend $20 and buy the puller, that will save you so much time. You will be doing the vacuum pump again in a year or so, so you might...
You need to use a power steering pulley puller (say it three times as fast as you can ;)) and remove the vacuum pump pulley. Easy peasy after that. I think the bolts are 10mm hex.
If you use a three jaw puller on the outside of the pulley just go ahead and order a new pulley.
Do like me...
If you are doing tie rods and ball joints check prices for XRF also... some good prices out there and I think the best quality.
Due to your budget, I would find the source of the play. Crappy boots don't cause that so if your steering box is done there goes your budget... for now! I have not...
Just have to say thanks for this! Ordering a complete set for my truck. And Canadian sources too! :cheers: Found them on Wrenchmonkey.ca and partsmonkey.ca - free shipping in Canada.
Please report back after you install them. And again after another 30 years :Thumbs Up
Park on flat concrete get a tape measure and start isolating it. Low tire pressure? Wrong tire size on one side? Stupid questions I know but until you measure every idea can only be a guess.
This is not an authoritative how-to but I just finished putting a turbo on mine... don't even need to use a search, it is on the second page right now! https://www.oilburners.net/threads/my-turbo-tale.82570/
Everyone here would like to help you but there should be lots of info available...
I should have signed up a long time ago but thought I needed more intimate time with my Ferret timing setup.
Just south of Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I use a Ferret pulse and unofficial Oilburners timing tape (no light with offset). You keep the tape :) See...
Block is good; I never heard it run but the PO said it fired right up. Oil is black (no water). Donor truck had 250,000 km on it (156K miles).
I checked the timing last night. Was at 7.5 so moved it to 8.5. I might see if I can get it on the dyno Saturday.
Hmmm... I had started to make a tight elbow from some 1" stainless tube but it was getting late, I needed a quick fix. I just didn't like the way the heavy 1" hose was crammed under the filter housing. I will work something out.
Done! Will it run? I turned the IP up three flats first... screw turned relatively easy and then seemed to bottom out so I left it there. Truck fired up like nothing had happened. I let it warm up while searching for leaks, tools, and other spare parts. Boost gauge does show a slight...
ALMOST THERE! CDR is the last major detail. I did not want to install this on the valve cover so went with a Banks setup on the IP cover. As previously mentioned I scrapped the vacuum pump so that opened up a nice location for installing the CDR. I had to modify my IP cover fitting for a...
Now that the turbo and exhaust are done I worked on the dipstick. Picked up some 3/4 steel tube and use the turkey fryer to heat it up to bend.
Looks easy but this required 503 trips back and forth :confused:to get it to fit correctly. There is very little room to fit this!
This tube is...
It was a long weekend but the turbo is in!
Exhaust installation... Last fall I put a Dynomax on the truck so the downpipe has to adapt to that. I used a digital angle finder on my pallet engine and calculated that a 30 degree elbow should be pretty close. I also decided to add a flex pipe and...
My plan is to turn up fuel before the dyno; I don't want to use up a lot of his shop time. I think it will be easier to load my tractor on the float and give it a good long pull and watch EGT's. The dyno run will be too short to really do that.
I did not know about the extra drain holes...
That makes sense... couldn't see anyone using that as a ground for boosting it. :rotflmao My GP controller is on the other side of the engine bay so can't happen.
@chillman88 yes it will go back on the dyno.
Took it apart last night, the Dynomax y-pipe is off intact, manifold studs came out...
Didn't get much done last night, just fix a couple of things on the turbo itself. The turbo is in great shape, no play at all. There was strange hole in the wastegate actuator - looked like an electrical burn. Cleaned it up and sealed.
I also took the actuator rod apart. This is peened...
I needed three lengths of wire, red and black for power, used yellow for the illumination. Kit is complete! You need an appropriate drill bit and tap for the 1/8 NPT.
Two things use vacuum; brakes and air control for defrost, floor, vent. Go hydroboost and you need very little vacuum. Buy the part I listed and install where you like. It is one line to attach for your dash controls.
Remove the mechanical pump and put a shorter belt on. Easy peasy.
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