Kool the moto with our engines / trucks in general is slow and steady wins the race and allows us to compete another day you race our motors you tend to have issues remember our motors were designed for reliability and to not be fussy about fuel quality and such also our motors do most theyre...
I don't think you will need track bars or anything but just be aware when you put the DI type injector nozzles in that these motors liven up down low takes some time to get used to but trust me its a big difference as soon as I get time and get to mess with the lathe I will either find my...
as I said before give me some time I will go thru all my stuff as I can I know I got a bunch already machined ready to go like 75+ of them as buying in bulk and doing the the machining all at once was most efficient route to go. I bought like 150+ of these nozzles and machined most of them...
odd yours are a bit different than ones i have I am wondering if maybe the ones they sent you are wrong will have to get pics of the injector nozzles I have here I dug some out that I need to machine soon mine do not have the stepdown like the ones you got also mine are much bigger around that...
no you mis understould a above stock turned up pump will be needed to drive 2 turbos a stocker turned up wont offer enough fuel but as I said its a fine line I think the 90cc-110cc will be needed to get you to around the 250WHP range out of experience and a maxed stocker will not get you past...
Glad you could see the reasoning I advised the ZF5 for the 460 big block drilled to fit ours I love it with mine and the fact reverse is actually usable unlike the diesel ZF5 trans I like the spread up top allows for better control in upper gears and the lower gears remain closer together so you...
The issue with the 10cm vs 12cm is in the radius where it enters the turbine is to small to flow the exhaust at the higher RPMs and reason the factory turbos struggle with high back pressure / turbine drive pressure this is where high EGT's occur not because of lack of fuel / air on intake side...
I think 12cm is smallest i would go for dual turbo's because the amount of exhaust that flows out above 1800rpm is going to cause crazy back pressure / turbine drive poressures and high EGT's even 12cm according to the math is a bit small and puts thihings out to lunch above 2200rpm diesel...
a diesel in general should not be driven like a gasser as they are fundamentally different designs and for different intentions a diesel is designed for torque / efficiency and well to do work a gaser is more designed for acceleration and ease of use to be blunt a diesel vehicle should never be...
I also just thought about this but a 10cm housing that means your going to have alot of back pressure especially if you go to around 1800rpm or more according to my math you will have enough back pressure your drive pressures will be way outside spec of the turbo overdriving the turbine and...
300hp ( this is more actually around 350-375 hp crank which is pretty ludicrous for daily lets not even go into the 350WHP ) at wheels is really outside of reliable safe boundaries and is like trying to run a motor on nitrous daily 75% of time on nitrous again 250-275 WHP is about limit for...
I advise converting to a 1 wire GM 10SI for simplicity and to get away from the external regulator and such Farmer Rock its rock dumb simple upgrade and eliminates a ton of headache and confusion in middle of rain storm or snow storm aka worst time possible if you get my point. The facts are...
I think you may have contamination in your fuel system you likely have some moisture in it because this isn't normal even for a bad injector use a gallon jug add large bottle of howes fuel treatment to it add 1 quart of KLOTZ super techniplate 2 stroke oil and a bottle of power service diesel...
I just wanted to put this out there the power stroke rods really are not needed till you really get crazy stock turbo rods can handle around the 300+hp range and 650ftlb~ of torgue wheel and the N/A rods can handle 250ish HP and 550ftlbish wheel and take it like a champ keep in mind it takes...
yes they should be fine the ones I linked are still cheaper buy 2 sets of ones I linked they need machined on a lathe the link you linked is for each single nozzle. The link I linked is for 6 of them so 2 sets will be needed but will have 4 extras remember to set timing a bit more retarded to be...
Just thought would link this it shows how easy my old 7.3l IDI started with 5.9l 370 marine injector nozzles machined to fit and 1825-1850 psi pop pressure on a worn out motor with tons of blowby I mean tons this motor was completely wore out look at the blowby coming out dipstick thats with a...
The glowplug delete drastically decreases compression on its own be aware of this its around 2 points of compression so starting at 21.5:1 compression it will drop it to around 19.5:1 compression with no other mods and the intake heater in the CDR valve port really makes it start much easier...
I forgot to mention I drill out the hole where the check ball goes in the thermostat upper housing and drill the spot on block to match I just remembered this it allows more bypass to occur and eleviates alot of issues I say this because i just did the mod to my other 6.9l and didn't drill that...
This was actually for The_Josh_Bear I miss quoted and forgot how to fix it LOL it was in reference to his comment
{ Huh? 50 psi pop difference makes 4-6* timing difference? If that's true we are all screwed cause nobody even offers it better than 50psi variance. Did you mean 500 psi? }
I...
if run it to long with bad injectors can wash the cylinder walls down and lose compression on those cylinders along with alot of other nasty stuff cost is much cheaper than buying a motor you need to remove the injectors and pop test them. A pop tester is around $100 and injector seal washers...
You might want to check your injectors for spray / pop if any dribble or pop earlier this will give those cylinders a knock sound because it essentially makes that cylinder fire earlier bumping that cylinders timing up making that cylinder rattle like crazy compared to the others. A rod knock in...
I am curious as to which is better for towing with turbo I have read tons of the threads but most are very old and instead of posting in one of them I am starting a new one I am after towing performance and do not care about max HP I am after torgue.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.