Problem solved by a new mechanical lift pump. Also, no air gets in the lines overnight any more. The fuel in the filter used to drain back pretty fast. I probably need to check the oil to make sure it does not smell like diesel fuel.
Drove great today. No leaks. Ran like a sewing machine. I need to go on a more extended drive to see if my problem was solved, but very glad to have a new pump on there regardless.
New pump is in. Got the block heater plugged in. Waiting on the RTV to dry overnight.
The edelmann hose 3/8 inverted flare to 3/8 hose barb fit perfectly. The threads on the filter head were 1/4" pipe thread. Local ace hardware had a 1/4" pipe thread to 3/8 hose barb fitting in stock.
Looks like this will work for the pump. 3/8 inverted flare to 3/8 hose barb
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-821660
I'm going to confirm here in a minute, but I think the filter head connection (the 90 deg elbow) is just a 3/8 tapered pipe thread.
I have not seen any decent pictures of this on any of the write-ups I read. Currently the pump is out of my truck and I have turned the engine over a bit to get the lobe in the right spot.
First pic is of the lobe hanging down. You want this lobe to be up and out of the way when installing the...
I have a new mechanical lift pump on the shelf. The one on the truck looks very old, so i've been meaning to swap it out at some point. That might just be tomorrow...
If ace happens to have a 1/8 npt plug I could stop that up tomorrow. Then i'll have to do something to plug the return line...
Video starts with me on a highway off-ramp with the clutch pushed in. I come to a stop and it starts surging
I drove around on surface streets for a minute after taking this video and the surging was gone.
Well I have two problems... one being that fuel drains back rather quickly after shut down and I lose prime. This has been going on awhile.
Two just started recently (after replacing fuel filter and plugging the fuel heater port) and that is the surging at idle.. seemingly only after coming off...
When searching here I found that there is supposed to be a ball and check valve behind the return line on top of the filter head.
I pulled the barb out and found nothing behind it. There is no ball or spring, just a straight and clean path through.
Installed washer, no luck! Still does the same thing.
The odd thing is that the surging at idle only seems to happen after coming off of an extended highway run.
I am going to pull the banks turbo filter housing off tomorrow and look for other leaks as well.
Thank you. I will prob take you up on that. I might throw a washer on there tomorrow from the hardware store if I can find one just to see if anything happens
What bothers me is I can't figure out how that would allow air in. The filter seems to be sealing well. A little bit of leakage between...
When I originally got my truck the fuel heater had a little bit of a leak through the electrical connector on the outside. I cleaned it up, filled with JB weld and it quit leaking.
I figured that I should fix that permanently at some point, so I bought a 1/2" tap and pipe plug, and a new fuel...
When I originally got my truck the fuel heater had a little bit of a leak through the electrical connector on the outside. I cleaned it up, filled with JB weld and it quit leaking.
I figured that I should fix that permanently at some point, so I bought a 1/2" tap and pipe plug, and a new fuel...
Need to get my cold start advance working. Was in the upper 20's overnight. The block switch no longer works... figure i'll wire something up in the cab. Or pay $60 for a new block switch. A little smoky but it cleans up and runs smoke free after about 30-40 seconds.
Just a note, you'll see the...
A fair amount. Say 2 hours of messing around with a box cutter/utility knife. Had to trim it (too big overall) and cut holes for the ZF5 shifter and Tcase shift lever
Not a Crew Cab, but the stuff rock auto sells (ACC brand) worked alright for me. I had to do some cutting to get it to fit, but for the price I am happy with it.
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