I have never tried this but see no reason it would not work. Find a radiator pressure tester and remove the cap from the pump. Then connect a air hose to the cap. Regulate the air pressure to no more than 15 lbs. Connect to the radiator apply air pressure and listen to where the air is leaking...
Need to mearsure voltage to the bulbs and check for a good ground. The other issue I have seen a few times is over the years the bulbs get a coating of dust and that kills light output.
Hubs are something I can live without. The 82 that got totaled little over a year ago had 311K on it. It would have been lucky if it ran 5000 miles of that with the hubs out. The 94 I am running now I had the hubs apart and cleaned when I did the front rotors right after I got the truck. Hubs...
While it is possible that you may have multiple circuits you can still find the issue using just a test light. Keep in mind that you probably will have some draw on the system when everything is working correctly. Things such as keep alive memory in the radio, especially if it is a digital...
If this were mine I would be doing some very close measuring of all the holes. I would be looking for how much taper and out of round each hole has. You would also need to measure the running clearance between the pistons and there holes. If the block checks out then I would replace the one...
Have you tried turning the engine over by hand and if so could you feel any difference as each piston makes it to TDC? Might need to pull the glow plugs to kill compression to make it easier to turn. I am wondering if by chance you have something on top of a piston. Have you pulled the wire to...
One way to go if the pistons measure within specs would be to sleeve the block. Not a cheep option but should get you away from cavatation issues and you would not have to buy pistons. Only you know how much money you wish to spend.
If I am understanding you correctly you have a 40 amp fuse feeding the glow plugs off the controller, is that correct? If so I think you will find it goes **** the first time you activate the system. Those plugs will draw right at 200 amps. As to going to the battery that is OK but I find you...
Disconnect the field wire at the alternator which is the black wire in the picture and see what happens. It should not charge. If it does that correctly then unplug the harness connector from the regulator and see if by chance you can measure voltage on that wire, you should not see any voltage...
Get a pressure tester on it when it is cold that should show you where the issue is. Might just tighten all the hose clamps. Sometimes they will be loose enough to leak cold and as things warm up they will seal again. Pressure tester is the best bet though.
If you are disconnecting the compressor clutch and fuse is not blowing then I would suspect the clutch is bad. 2.2 ohms sounds a little on the low side.
Why not test the clutch for amp draw? That will tell you exactly what is going on.
Had same issue this summer. ABS come on and then go off. That went on for a few days and then was just on. Did a little research and found that low fluid could be an issue. Checked and it was. The things one learns.
Power is good enough for me. Country gravel roads are only safe up to a certain speed. Did the same job for years with a wore out 300 6 so seems like I have all sorts of power now.:Thumbs Up
Have owned the truck for 13 months now. Have been keeping track of fuel and miles. I did not catch up with the fact the sun had faded a few pages on me so do not have total milage but I have good records for 4005.7 miles with 273.679 gallons going through the system. I farm and for the most part...
Then I guess I would not call it hydrolocked at this point. Seems more like it is siezed. Which could be several different things. Bearings on crank, piston scored, something in the timing gears preventing them from turning etc. Have you drained the oil and cut open the oil filter? Might find...
If you remove the glow plugs will the motor spin over or do you think you have some bent rods? Or has the block been ventilated? Guess it would depend on what locked the motor. If just a leaking head gasket it might not be that bad but one never really knows until you get into it. If you had to...
The reason cold water on a hot pump is not a great idea is due to the close tolerances inside the pump. It is a good way to seize a pump and cause so very expensive repairs. More likely to happen if the pump is in good shape and not the root cause of the starting issue.
Considering most household circuits are 15 amp not sure I would want to go that route. I run a timer most of the time rather than going all night long.
I think that is one of the reasons Motorcraft went to the ZD29 to kind of get away from the counterfit plugs, at least for awhile. I paid about $12 a plug from O'Reilly and the local Ford dealer was asking $16 so not really that much difference.
I bought a set off EBay about a year ago. They were fake. My results were as DougBoy mentioned. All looked good other than no hole in the package. They drew only half the amps that a genuine one does so the controller would not work correctly. O'Reilly Auto Parts also sells genuine plugs so a...
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