And this sticker on the core support:
Tag on the IP:
Monster aftermarket aluminum radiator:
Looks to have a brand new master cylinder and booster:
Has an air compressor feeding a pair of big horns:
Moving on to the engine, I pulled out these pieces from the cab:
In addition to the super dirty air filter, the turbo looks rough. Impeller spins freely, but has some slop in it:
So will likely need to send that off to be rebuilt. But I'll wait until I've had a chance to see how the rest...
Moving on to the transmission, I didn't notice any cracks in the bellhousing or any broken ears. Sticker indicates its a match to my current one (4.14-0.77), only 4x4:
Rear axel cover does leak:
But mostly irrelevant since I already have a sound Sterling 10.25 with 4.10 gears. But having...
Went looked at the donor truck today. Once I saw the cupholder, I was sold:
I was not able to get into his driveway to load it onto my trailer, so I had to park a couple of miles down the street, get a ride back to the seller house, and then call a rollback wrecker. We got it onto his...
Some interior shots:
I can't tell what trim level this truck is? Front and rear seats don't match for sure.
I think between the aftermarket gauges and the Diamond Eye straight pipe exhaust, my theory about it getting way too much fuel or boost and the stock 1/2 head bolts stretching...
I stumbled upon what I think will be a great donor truck for getting the 4WD components I need for the conversion.
This beauty:
The good:
93/94 7.3L IDI turbo
ZF5 manual trans 4x4
Kingpin Dana 60 front axle
Dana80/sterling 10.5 rear axle
4 inch Diamond Eye straight pipe
4 inch lift...
Yeah, a helper axle would be way cool, but yeah, pretty sure they don't make those for these small trucks. :D
As far as I know, my current rear spring pack is standard issue on a 89 Cab & Chassis 161" WB. The springs are 2.25" wide, which I think might be less than what goes on a regular...
Ok cool. Once I get the front done, I'll see where I'm at. Here's an old pick from before I pulled the engine:
Looks pretty level to me. But yeah, de-arching the front to get back to the above stance once the conversion is done sounds like a great option, assuming I have the clearance.
@ttman4 Glad to hear your Holly Red is still holding up! I did order a 100 micron filter to stick in front of the Holley. I went with this one:
I've been chatting with @KansasIDI and will be making a road trip there pretty soon to pick up a 4x4 parts truck from him along with some other...
Appreciate the insight @KansasIDI !
Temporarily bolted in the fuel selector valve and located the Holley pump:
Do I need a check valve anywhere in the supply line?
As far as the return, did the factory setup run a soft hose back to the selector valve, or was a portion of it vinyl?
Picked...
I envision only engaging the front locker when backing out of a mud hole or something like that on my land. I would not plan to use it at all when going forward and making a turn. Just like to have the option in case I get stuck, or close to getting stuck, which believe me, is easy to do where...
Ha, I don't know about that, but I do hope it turns out ok.
Spent most of the day cleaning up the frame some more. I did manage the remove the exhaust by simply tilting the frame again:
Its a long sucker:
I removed all the fasteners from the frame:
Most of them got buggered up...
Thanks Goat! If boiling in water for 30 secs proves an issue, I'll try your 2x4 method. Very neat!
Decided to needle scale the entire frame to expose the metal for the POR 15 prep steps. In some places the repaint they did was ok, in others I exposed rust when removing the paint. In pic...
Lol, yeah you're probably right about that.
Got the underside of the frame pressure washed this morning:
Discovered that one of the bushings for the front cross beams is shot:
So I'll do both of those.
I also discovered that the frame had been painted in the past and started flacking off...
Pulled the frame outside and gave it a good power wash:
The gavel made it a bit of a mess. Once I get it on the road, getting some fresh gravel for in front of the shop will be one of the first jobs I'll do with it.
Checked in with Joe @ CDD and my rebuild I.P. is still about 6 weeks out. :(
Thanks Goat! Went ahead and ordered one as the oem connector on my harness as pretty rough and the locking latch and part of the housing is broken off and the rubber gasket has seen better days. Want to make sure the electrical connection to the selector valve is secure.
I looked at the kit...
I'll have to get better at welding but I suppose I can learn on this truck, although thin sheet metal is probably not the most forgiving.
The selector valve was definitely swapped out at one point:
Which explains why the connector wasn't plugged in. Fortunately, the OEM connector fits the...
Got the cab completely separated:
Floorboard is more rusted that I thought. Driver side isn't too bad:
Passenger side is worse:
Closeup:
You can see several rust through holes. Hoping I can get away with just using POR 15 floor pan restoration kit and not weld in new sections...
Thanks!
So I decided to go ahead and remove the hood and fenders:
I then realized not much else had to be removed to lift off the cab:
Only thing left is to pull the wiring harness out from the frame going back and the cable for the hydraulic valve:
I'll then remove the old fuel...
Thanks! Don't know that I would call them cheap. The Dorman 800-050 5/16" quick connector runs about $20 a pop from Bronco Graveyard and even more on Amazon. I think I would need like 10 of those. Do you have a cheaper source?
EDIT: Above are with 18" of tubing and union. Need to look for...
I'll look into the possibility of sliding the speedo gear out the back. 1st I need to source a new one. Thinking I might call High Impact Transmission & Gear since they appear to have experience rebuilding ZF5s.
Regarding the fuel lines back to the tanks, I take it the pre-formed nylon lines...
The speedometer worm gear is messed up too:
Unfortunately, it order to replace it, it looks like I'll have to tear the transmission down, in which case I might as well rebuilt it...
Next I moved on to cleaning up the transmission. Given how nasty it was when I started, I think it cleaned up fairly well:
The fork boot is shot:
As is the shifter boot:
And 2 of the top plate bolts are missing, so I'll take back what I said about nobody having been in the...
Getting the old carrier bearing off was a bear. Getting the rubber boot off was pretty straight forward after putting a heat gun to it to soften it up some. That left me with this:
Shaft was too long to fit in my press and I didn't have any other bearing pullers that would reach that deep...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.