Ugh.
I had been sleeping well knowing that my Benz's gas M110 had a double-row timing chain and metal guides (not those plastic ones that break). Now I need to worry about little balls. Thanks. lol
...just like a 2-stroke.
Most race drivers have the ability to lean the fuel mix out as needed near the end of the race if needed to win.
If the engine melts down just after the finish line then you know you gave it everything you had. And hopefully you won.
I've burned up some 2-strokes that...
I ended up crawling under this morning before my trip and drained the oil down a bit so I cannot testify if an extra quart will hurt or not.
Thanks for the replies anyway.
I have aftermarket gauges with real numbers on them. My oil pressure is usually 45 +/- and I trust it and I pay attention to it.
So I guess if it's frothing my gauge will tell me?
I'd prefer to leave the extra oil in there and let it burn down. I rarely put any real demand on this engine, fwiw.
That diptstick reading was after running the engine for a bit. I did pre-fill the filter maybe 1/3.
Would I see a drop in oil pressure on my gauge if it is frothing from the crank?
Not a huge deal to crawl back under there and get oily/dirty again.
But if there's no danger then I'd rather leave it in there.
So I guess the info. I read is wrong. 9 quarts for oil/filter change. Not 10.
A side note: I was getting near the bottom of the oil jug and a chunk of white something...
I just changed my oil and filter. I read that it takes 10 quarts. Perfect. I had a 2.5 gallon jug of Delvac so I dumped it in.
The dipstick is reading high. How much overfill can I get away with? I'd rather not go back under to drain some but I will if it's important.
The red line in the picture...
Glad that you got out of there and back to the real world.
I have inlaws that live inside the beltway and they are helpless when anything goes "wrong".
It sounds like many of you have a spare (rebuilt?) engine ready to replace your current engine when the time comes.
I'm still not in love with my truck but I guess I'll probably just keep it until I'm dead instead of starting over in trying to find my "forever" truck.
So... what's your criteria...
A spare fuel filter and a Mityvac to suck fuel up to the Schrader valve after changing the filter.
A spare set of injection lines (especially if you don't have the dampers installed).
Woohoo!!!
I was dreading spending well over a grand on new tires ($900 if I stayed with stock size).
I just happened to pull up Craigslist and there, on the front page, was 4 General Grabber AT3 in 285/75R16.
He put them on his Dodge 400-500 miles ago and his frame just cracked.
I'm picking...
I didn't get those used ones and now am looking at new ones.
Dang. To go to 33" is almost $100 more per tire for the same model.
I think I'll be sticking with the OEM size.
Hmmm. I never thought about jumping both batteries. Will try that with 2 small jumper packs some day.
I've heard to connect the black cables to metal rather than the neg. battery post. Correct?
I have small lithium jumper packs in all of our cars and they are very handy and surprisingly powerful.
Turning over an IDI is a different story though. And the packs to do so look pretty expensive. How many peak amps minimum would you buy?
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