I feel like we must have dealt with the same guy in Arizona. I had carters continually breaking on a Cadillac. The issue is the tolerance is so poor on the build the plunger hook pops off the arm and then no more pumping. You can take it apart and hook it back on and then it just falls apart...
High risk low reward. If you break the arm off into the engine you are going to have a fun time getting it out. That happened to me on a different vehicle.
All the pumps in my original response have two return ports, you just swap the res. And non of the pumps whine. The f350 ones you can notice through the wheel if you are particular the f super not.
How does that improve steering behavior? Sounds opposite.
hydro system wants least pressure on return. That’s why people who T their return lines tend to have steering glitches.
I’ve tested the following and permutations of between categories:
1. Without and without RABs
2. Vacuum vs Hydro
3. F250/F350, F-Super, & Red Head Steering Gears
4. Various OEM, Rebuilt & New F350/F350 pumps, F-Super Third Party Pump
= Braking w/ Vacuum =
Braking with vacuum and rabs was...
First bath since 2017. Stock suspension & wheel and tires back to factory sizes. Front end rebuilt. Feels good to drive now.
Going to keep chipping away at the little things this week. Maybe take it to Vermont on Friday and meet up with @Scotty4 . That would be a 16 hour round trip.
Steering and braking are good, updated here https://www.oilburners.net/threads/hydroboost-ghost.92137/page-2#post-1122486
next I have to cut and adjust the angle of one of the intercooler pipes and have it bead rolled. I did a leak test @10psi when I put the intercooler together but I can push...
Resolved follow-up. Although it was working fine, it was still subpar IMO. I wasn’t satisfied that it was worse than vacuum assist brakes. I got thinking and looked up the pumps a F450/F550 powerstroke would use. Ordered part number EDD 6014R.
Swapped the 6014 on, quick bleed, now we are good...
It should have a fan. Unloaded in the 80 degree whether I’m seeing no difference shroud or not. For “fun” I would guess it would run unloaded below 230 with no fan based on the time i had the no coolant flow behavior.
I’m continuing to tinker with the hydroboost. I’m not satisfied with it. I had this truck with vacuum brakes able to throw you through the dashboard. It’s half as good with hydroboost. Have tested multiple steering gears, multiple pumps, essentially all components. I’ve been moving a f super res...
I think it’s safe to assume you’re going to be checking for block quality before machining it.
The most accurate blanket statement is what I gave regarding what the “fine limit” is and not just buying 0.040 over because you can. if it’s a performance build I’m going standard bore.
.030 was approved by international during R&D as acceptable when they designed the block. .040 is not. I had a .040 engine and it lasted 1 year before cracking a cylinder.
Im in the driving and work out any bugs phase. Yesterday I thought to myself, you know I may not have put any TC fluid back in. Sure enough, no fluid. Added the fluid. Apparently the speedo gear liked it dry because within 1 mile of it now having fluid the speedo stopped working.
Kinda odd. White smoke is your getting incomplete combustion and/or coolant. a 7.3 at even 3-4 degrees runs pretty well. Near 0 it starts to get rough and whiter. Do you have infrared? You can check the temps across the cylinders. If it’s all relatively even something may have gone wrong in the...
Same in PA junkyards pretty much anything pre 1990 trucks have been crushed.
A couple of the large yards will keep antique 40s to 70s sections. If they get a clean 80s truck it will be put out in the truck section for a couple months and then turned into cans. 0 to None IDIs in the yards too...
Yea most conversions aren’t using Saginaw pumps. You’ll have to mod it like cubey said. For non Saginaw pumps the pumps are the same, you just swap the res.
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