You use the gear wrench and wack it with a mini sledge with the belt on. Same thing in reverse because when the engine revs it tightens it. When the fan clutch is engaged and then disengages is the only thing to keep an eye on. Any time I do it I mark a straight line across the nut with paint...
Got a trailer and will no longer be paying @chillman88 with bricknoses to borrow his. Appreciated the adventures together - this just means we can haul double the amount of trucks now.
No, atleast my turbo valve covers have it passenger side near the dipstick. I’m flipping the manual harness in reverse and then putting it near the IP with isolators.
I want to make a bracket for a white Roger’s relay and then flip a glow plug wire loom backwards and mount it near the IP with isolators. Will post the finished product.
Thanks Goat let me know how it goes. I haven’t had to remove a sleeve yet. I’d probably do the iffy way very carefully if I couldn’t find a better way.
That’s great you got the rotunda driver.
Your exhaust valve seals are probably long gone from the age you described it’s been untouched which could cause smoke on startup that clears. It is also fine to run like that. In the international engine book I have it even gives you an option to run no exhaust valve seals just noting it may...
I saw your question I didn’t have any issue with holding gauge compression with the kit from my video and where I cut. That stinks about #1 but it’s been running this long. #7 almost looks inaccurately high for the motors age and other cylinders.
I like JB weld if you want to hack things it works. I had a GM engine with cracked heads and I jb welded the heads to the block and daily drove it no issues.
Merc covered the right way to do things.
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