@IDIBRONCO You're right. I was trying to remember the difference I think I misspoke but yes the 6.9 has a washer/bolt and the other ones that came with my 7.3 had the integrated washer. Flanged bolts I believe. They were also thicker towards the bolt flange as to center the manifold better on...
Just had a similar situation. My 1987 rear end was bent (open diff 3:55) from a previous owners accident. Found a 1993 axle with 4:10s, Trak-lok, long pinion) I ended up just taking the short pinion 3:55 gears/yoke out of the old axle and swapping them into the newer 1993. They're...
I just reused mine. I did notice the ones from my 87 6.9 and the newer 7.3 were slighly different on the shoulder. Before install I took everyone of them to the wire wheel. They had some mild rust pitting on top.
So, i'm assuming when air intrusion is happening it's sending aerated fuel which can't fully "prime" the injectors or pump well enough to give a good spray but not enought to stall? This happens until the air has been mostly worked out?
10/10 I would love to have that 86 Centurion. Not sure how I'd feel about working on it BUT that's beside the point. Dually for the win! All that payload!
@Bart F-350 If you pull the vacuum line off the manifold and stick you thumb over it while running it should make that noise and then slowly stop. If it continues it could be an issue with the pump but if it goes away it's probably a slow leak somewhere. Possibly the brake booster, cruise...
Looks good to me. I usually clock the joints closer so they can move freely but not twist. Also, I noticed your vacuum pump consistently making the "S-S-S-S" sound. Mine does this until it's created enough vacuum (5-10 seconds) in the vacuum system on startup. Are sure you don't have a leak?
First thing i'll ask is are these the OE return line caps or aftermarket? If you put a micrometer on the inside of the cap where the O-rings seal and it's like (.010") different it's probably an oversized return line cap. I battled this when I couldn't get my aftermarket return lines to seal...
RockAuto has a few different brands. One Dorman pump is left for less than 50$ but only has a 30 day warranty. They have other brands at about 85-95$ it looks like. I'd go with the SMP pump, it's got the 36 month/36000 mile warranty. I think that's the one I ordered when the Dorman wasn't...
I had two Dorman pumps. One came on my truck but had weak vacuum. So, I purchased another Dorman from RockAuto and it lasted a little over a year or so. Swapped the old one back on while I warrantied the pump from Rockauto but they stopped carrying it. I took the return money value and put...
BEWARE. You need to check the block numbers and make sure it isn't the casting that cracks by the block heater. No point IMO to build an engine that has this issue. I sold my 84 reluctantly back when I lived with 3 other roommates and couldn't keep 3 vehicles. After it sold the new owner...
Those Kingpin D60 fronts have a decent amount of camber built into them from the factory. Not sure why but they do. I have two and they both have a decent amount. Yep, 3/4" toe is too boo coo. I believe they want 4 degrees caster and 1/8"-1/4" toe in as others have said. As far as shock...
On my factory 093 I just drilled the spot weld off the wastegate actuator arm and can now thread it to whatever I want. How is your tailpipe smoke at 4 flats and 9-10 psi? EGT's?
No worries. Remember to get the gasket that goes with the plate to block or make a gasket with oil safe gasket paper. I usually use Permatex Spray-A-Gasket on both sides before install. Also, make sure to put silicone on the flywheel/flexplate bolts as they are drilled all the way through into...
If you keep that OEM sleeve the SKF #38649 is what you would replace it with. I was able to install mine carefully without needed a special tool. I knocked mine in from the back of the plate with a piece of wood. Use Ford Motorcraft gray silicone on outer edge of seal before install. I also...
It's hard to give info without knowing which sleeve the crank has. I'm assuming it's the thicker one if it's international. I'd read this and see if it answers your questions. Rock auto has a bunch of seals but they are different. When it says "OEM sleeve it means the thicker sleeve not the...
I've used Restore in the past with good results. You have to add it every time the oil is changed for it to continue working but not the worst price to pay. Might be a good time to start sourcing another good engine for a future swap if you're worried about your current engines potential future.
I used the blue bullet female crimps with heat shrink to fix a couple on my harness. They don't fit quite as tight as the originals but they do slip on fairly well. A tight fit is key they move a lot of juice when the glow plugs cycle. If you don't you might get the "clicky clicky" noise from...
It's tough to always feel the changes after we do modifications. I'd like to think it's an accumulation of modifications that result in the big change we were looking for. Again very nice on the air vent. I definitely want to add that to my list. I just have get past this laundry list i've...
@The_Josh_Bear Looks great! That's on my new list to add to my truck as well. Now that you've added more airflow I wonder if adding a hood scoop to get the hot air out would be in the cards?
That is the exact gasket I ordered as a backup. I'm a huge fan of LubeLocker since I do all the servicing myself. It's just downright a better gasket in all areas. Saves easily an hour of cleaning off old silicone, applying new and letting it set up.
Just based on all the research Banks did on diff covers I think this will be a great upgrade. Nothing close to there ram air design but better than flat back diff covers. I do have a laser thermometer so I will give it a shot. Once I get all my trailer wiring and receiver sorted out i'd like...
I was hoping to use my Lukelocker gasket but it that doesn't seal theres always RTV. I did source longer bolts before as well. Heard a lot of people upset about it not having longer bolts.
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