Stack looks good. Vertical height i think ~6” max above rack/cab. Too high and it becomes more liability. Depends on how the rack is used too. If loading anything on top it may be more functional to have stack max height below the rack
Prepping for smf clutch swap on ‘88 7.3/zf5 4x4 non turbo. Looking for the bare minimum parts to start off with - am I missing anything? Timken TOB is on back order so just going National bearings.
Finally got the truck towed back to my place. Took a while to figure out the most reasonable course of action. Will start a new thread as necessary for clutch work etc. continuing to work on a fix myself is making the most sense
YouTube for how to. You can get the seal from any parts store - I’ve used Oreilly but prefer Napa. It’s probably not necessary to replace Speedo cable oring - I didn’t. Harbor freight and hardware stores sell oring packs.
I have a strong feeling the black stuff is from u joint grease being...
i love toppers, they're usually called canopies around here. snow, rain, whatever it makes life way easier usually. was loading a lot of 4x8 pallets into the bed last summer and didn't have any issues. I mostly like not having to worry about items being stolen. don't sleep in the bed as much as...
They can be bench bled, did it last week. Spoke with rep at Oreilly and she said pre-bled are not sold anymore because they leak etc and cause a lot of problems.
I can't recommend a brand but the OEM units were plastic and the newer ones are cast aluminum. I generally prefer napa auto but...
Verified the tcase shifts when actuated by lever. It appears the front driveshaft will turn with tcase in 4Hi and hubs Free, trans in gear. Front driveshaft does not spin with tcase in 4Hi, hubs locked, and trans in gear
Dang. New master and slave installed and hooked up with no change to pedal action.
Was optimistic but not expecting the issue to be hydraulic related - worth trying the $100 and 5hr repair before going new clutch though.
Glad there is a lot of good info on clutch work around here though. SMF...
Not really proud of taking apart the old master cylinder but got the old pushrod ejected. It may have been more difficult than setting the slave cylinder.
Hopefully the old pushrod will be the correct length to fit the heim joint/pedal - have spend hours on my back filing this thing down to fit...
spoke with a local ip and injector rebuilder in Seattle about getting injectors rebuilt for a small late ‘70s volvo diesel. They said “yeah sure we do it all” which is nice but am skeptical. Went another route for that project so no comment on results. Something like this I would prefer to stick...
Can’t add the video from my phone it seems like but with the slave cylinder disconnected from the bracket the clutch fork has some play in it, maybe 1/2” of jiggling around but not towards the direction the slave would push. Is that expected?
Had someone push the pedal while watching the fork and it does move a bit. Maybe like 1/4” at most?
The angle of travel of the fork seemed correct.
The pedal felt like it’s just compressing fluid without any outlet.
Ended up swapping in the new master and slave cylinders but don’t have...
Will give it a try.
It’s in the realm of possibilities but after isolating the pedal and master/slave portions of the system, by removing the slave from its bracket, the pedal pushes in fine.
Should I be able to actuate the clutch fork by hand?
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