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After removing hub you will need to remove the spindle. KD tool#3910 threads on the spindle and has threads for a slide hammer. You may be able to lever the spindle off without a slide hammer with the tool protecting the spindle threads...
If you haven't found them yet, the library of tech articles is at the top of the page. I refer there first when I know an issue has been dealt with.
https://www.oilburners.net/forums/idi-tech-article.80/
The earlier 6.9 blocks are not good candidates for a rebuild. The earlier blocks had issues with the block cracking at the block heater. Starting with block #237016 bolt in piston cooling nozzles were used. Prior blocks has press in nozzles that required NLA tool and template to install as well...
The Ford tool kit was Rotunda TKIT 1983 D6.9. At least that is the number on mine. All the tools will work on 7.3 IDI. The flare nut socket in the kit is the same as the OTC one posted above. Unfortunately some folks on ebay are parting out the kits and selling individual tools to maximize...
The two orange wires go on the empty lug on the relay. They power the GPs. Black should go to pass side small terminal and purple to drivers side small terminal. There should be another wire with a large end like the orange wires that feeds the wait to start light. Purple powers the relay if the...
Another source of air intrusion can be the "olives" at the hard line ends. They are like a short section of fuel line compressed by the fitting. There are olives in the line from the filter to the IP and at the fitting at the back of the engine where the return line goes back to the tank. I...
Do you have press in or bolt in piston cooling jets? The switch was made on block # 237016. The press in style will make it difficult to hone the cylinders.
One mod I made was to block off the coolant ports in the heads that are sealed by the valley pan/intake gasket. On the 7.3 the ports were...
Trans crossmember to frame is 18mm and 15mm bolt/nut and a real time consuming PITA. Box end wrenches there for sure. Pull starter motor and oil filter. Top bolt on starter is another PITA, need extension to attack from the front.
Save the core support if not rusted out.
If you need to bore or hone cylinders, you will need to remove the piston cooling jets aka "oil squirters". Block serial # 237016 and later the jets were bolted in. Before that they were pressed in using a template and factory tool. I don't believe the pressed in jets are to be reused, and there...
A socket can be used to push the caps down. I wouldn't reuse O-rings even if they appear ok. The fuel return system is the weakness of the IDI. I believe the caps can get brittle after awhile but I have reused caps. Best insurance is a new kit with viton O-rings. Check inside of new caps for...
Here is a page from a Haynes manual. Removal is described as using visegrips and a pry bar. No mention if they can be reused or if new ones are necessary, so I assume they can be reused. The correct installation tool and template are probably unavailable. You could probably fab a template from...
Here are my gauges in my '85. Isspro EV2. 2" abs fits 2" gauges. I cut the abs at an angle (22 1/2) I am non AC so used one AC spot for water temp. I tapped my oil pressure from galley port on drivers side behind oil filter, just in front of trans adapter. My engine was rebuilt, so no crud was...
My machine shop was able to thread pipe plugs into those ports. Sealing the ports with the valley pan was not ideal so the change was made to plugs for the 7.3
DMV won't know if engine is 6.9 or 7.3. Engine serial # are not matched to VIN. You will have to get a weight with the increase somewhere north of 6000#. DMV will verify VIN if from out of state. My truck came from Nevada and I had no issues.
My latest reg was $275. Fuel is expensive. CA fuel...
I installed petcocks when I built my engine. I have used them a couple of times replacing my water pump and radiator. I wish I had used petcocks that had a spout to attach a piece of plastic hose to direct the flow and capture the coolant. The passenger side isn't too bad, but on the drivers...
I think epoxy primer would seal body filler. That would prevent flash rust on exposed metal too. Epoxy is a two component catalyzed primer, so you would need a spray gun to apply. I don't think any rattle can product would work.
Edit: You may be able to apply epoxy primer with a small paint...
If you want to eliminate that timing adapter get a #4 injector line from a truck. Trucks had the adapter on #1 line. The line with the adapter is shortened by the length of the adapter so all the lines are the same total length.
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