Make a couple of alignment dowels by cutting off the heads of bolts to thread into crank, then hang flywheel. I'm way too old and weak to hold that thing in place.
When you replace the cover be sure to apply extra RTV in the corners where it meets the oil pan. If you haven't installed the seal yet, put the rear cover in place and you will see the size of the gap that needs to be filled.
I made a catch can using a Goldenrod filter. There is an option to use a stainless strainer instead of the paper filter. I used a Banks adapter on the oil fill and ran post filter to the CDR. I have a Hypermax turbo so the intake accepts the CDR. I improved the catch can after this photo by...
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/complete-engine-bolt-torque-spec-for-the-7-3-6-9.80697/
This thread from the tech articles at the top of the page has engine manual page on heads and valves. Specs are for 7.3 IDI but should be the same for 6.9.
Look at the rear of the head gasket. Visible from under the truck. I have had two original head gaskets leak externally there. The 6.9 has coolant ports at the lower corners that were replaced by cup plugs on 7.3. I wonder if this was to address this problem. The 6.9 will run cooler with this...
I believe the line from the lift pump has a heating element integrated. I just looked at mine and the wire is plugged into the glow plug harness just behind the thermostat. I have no idea if it is necessary.
To prevent rotation of carriage bolts, tack weld them to the bed before going after the nuts with an impact. I still have one stubborn one I need to cut.
As a reference I installed new leaf springs 10 years ago. I ended up with 1 5/8 between springs and bump stop. With a 2.75* camber bushing maxed out I still had 1* positive camber. I was told the springs would settle over time and camber would be close to correct. At the time I replaced pivot...
I was able to pull the trans back and support it with a chain and 4x4. I made some alignment dowels cutting the heads off a couple of long bolts threaded into the bell housing to help guide the trans back in. The cross member can be swung out of the way pivoting on the drivers side. That side is...
https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/d/gardnerville-2000-ford-excursion-fummins/7148325248.html
Don't think this would fly here in Cali... Not registered as diesel, smog regs etc. I wonder why he gave up.
I am late to the party. I cut some 2"abs on an angle for gauge pods. I don't have AC so used one of the vent locations for water temp. Gauges are Isspro.
If you havent done it yet, the cowel drains are behind the kick panels in front of the door. There is a rubber outlet that gets plugged up...
Each up pipe is secured with a set screw. 7/16 wrench size. Drivers side best access is from underneath. The down pipe is secured with a ring like a piston ring. It is just pressed into place, so should pull out. With down pipe out the turbo is bolted to the pedestal. Awkward like all work on...
Probably best bet would be a used pump and pulley from a junk yard. The proper puller is a split ring that grabs the groove on the front of the pulley.
I had the same problem and ovalized the holes a bit with a rat tail file until the bolts would start. I assume this was ok as I now have 45k miles on it.
I can vouch for the horizontal line method. In the picture I have a ruler behind the gear on top of the block. I made a line with the ruler and then checked the alignment one tooth off and it was very obvious the line was nowhere parallel to the top of the block. With the gear removed you could...
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