Fuel pump is the lift pump. Not to be confused with the injection pump. Replacing all your return lines is a good place to start to eliminate air intrusion. Is the original fuel water separator still hooked up? It is on the firewall next to the brake booster. These 6.9 F/W separators are known...
Maybe some of the old WVO has gelled and is still present, restricting the IP. I seem to recall a member with similar issues got his started after warming the IP with a heat gun or hair dryer. You could fill the fuel filter with ATF and try and get it through the system. Do you have a mechanical...
I have supported the trans from the top with a 4x4 and chain, then move it back enough to do the clutch. Sounds like you got it done. I have also used a cherry picker through the passenger door.
Look under the dash at the clutch linkage. The master pushrod has an eye that goes on a pin on a lever arm. There should be a plastic bushing between the pin and eye. The bushing wears and goes away, then the pushrod eye and pin start wearing each other. The first page of this thread has a...
Is the diaphragm that the boost hose goes to fully inserted? I had the set screw come loose and the diaphragm started backing out and the truck ran as you describe. It was worse than NA and then came on like a jet. Unfortunately in my case I didn't diagnose what was going on until the diaphragm...
I like to change mine when the engine is warm, just run. It makes the restart pretty simple. It will run a bit rough at first as some air will be in the system. Put a rag under the filter to catch the spilled diesel. My experience is with a mechanical fuel pump. If you have an electric fuel pump...
Here is my catch can. I used a Goldenrod Filter, and used a stainless steel strainer made by them to replace the filter element. If you have a Banks kit you probably already have the adapter that goes on the IP gear cover. The Goldenrod is available with 1" pipe thread, so the fittings were the...
typ4 (post #4) sells a cam that is an upgrade from stock. Power band is at lower rpm. R&D sell a couple of different grinds also. http://idiperformance.com/
The upgraded cam gear doesn't have the two threaded holes for pulling it off. You need to use a 3 jaw puller. The upgraded gear has a cast...
There are scribed timing marks on the gear cover and pump at 12:00. Aligning the marks is only a static timing that allows the engine to run. You will need to dynamic time the engine using a meter or timing light with a pulse adapter after it is warmed up to operating temperature. Most of the...
The later 6.9 and the 7.3 had bolt in piston cooling nozzles. The early 6.9 had press in nozzles and required a template to reinstall properly. I am not sure if they can even be reused. Check your block serial# on the top drivers side behind the IP gear cover. If any boring or honing is done the...
Behind your air filter housing on the intake before turbo should be a tuna can looking fitting with a hose into it. That is the CDR (crankcase depression regulator). Blowby from the crankcase is recirculated through the CDR and back into the intake. The Hypermax kit takes the vapor from the...
That could be a head gasket. The 6.9 has a habit of leaking at the rear corners if the original head gasket is still there. Both of mine did, pass side dripping on starter. When you swap the front clip would be the time to do it.
I think if you go this route you will need to use 6.9 head gaskets. They have a rubber gasket around those coolant ports. I don't know if a hole drilled in a 7.3 gasket would seal. Check out the photo of the two gaskets. Icanfixall said the fire rings are the same size on both gaskets...
Sorry to hear about all this. I know where you are coming from, wanting to get it right. The manual shows drawing a line on the IP gear, and I can see that working. Now how do you know where the timing mark is on the cam gear? I have heard (Urban myth possibly) of using a dental pick to find it...
I even thought about it and still installed my heads opposite the way they were. "Think long ,think wrong". It just required swapping around the pipe plugs and the heater outlet. The sensors weren't in place yet.
FWIW my manual shows 7.3 oil control ring gap at .008" to .030". This is for earlier 7.3s. The ring design changed with engine #598754. What brand pistons and rings? My Mahle rings were in spec for .030 oversize. Justin at R&D is doing a re-ring and bought another set to file fit the second...
Scribing a line on the IP gear is actually shown in the manual. There is a reference to dye on the gear teeth of the cam gear. I haven't seen that in my limited experience. Russ (typ 4) files a chamfer on the cam gear teeth on each side of the timing marks to see them with the front cover on. In...
Justin at R&D Performance posted some data on FTE on a set of heads he ported. He actually made the intake worse than stock, but gained some on the exhaust.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1363960-idi-head-flow-numbers-stock-vs-ported.html
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.