You may want to reseal your oil cooler. It's much easier with the engine on a stand. For the rear crank seal, International sells a seal with a wear sleeve. The sealing surface on the crank gets a groove worn into it and won't seal if just a seal is replaced. According to the instructions, you...
Are you reusing your old injection pump? Did you mark the static timing before you removed the pump? You will need a good set of batteries, these engines need to spin fast to start. If you have a mechanical fuel pump it may take quite a few rounds of cranking and letting the starter cool.
If the crank sealing surface has a groove worn in it you will need a speedi sleeve. The manual shows a 1/8" bead on sides and 1/4" bead on the ends where it mates the front and rear plates, with a second 1/4" bead at the corner transition from curve to flat. Before applying RTV put the pan in...
I replaced my leaf springs with new ones four years ago. I replaced everything: ball joints, shackle bushings, axle pivot bushings. My camber was positive. I had Les Schwab do the alignment. The maximum adjustable camber bushing available was 2.75 degrees. After installing at max my camber was...
There are four bolts that require thread sealant. They go through the timing cover.
The fan clutch nut is 1 15/16. The hard part is keeping the pulley from turning. The factory tool is like a huge crow foot wrench that goes around the four pulley bolts. In practice the pulley bolts don't stick...
Are you reusing that pump? If so, you can mark the joint between the gear cover and pump so it goes back the same. Best practice would be to time correctly using a meter when everything is back together.
In my case the machine shop needed .030 to clean up the bores. I didn't order pistons until I knew what size was needed, then the machine shop measured the pistons and did the final bore within the tolerance spec.
I bought one like that a few years back. I don't remember the price. I started my build and the cam had too much end play. The cam retainer is a wear item and they are NLA. I wanted the upgraded cam gear as well. Those parts as well as the new fuel pump lobe went on my typ4 cam. I was thinking...
Do you have a machine shop you are going to deal with? Most of your questions will be answered when you take the parts in for evaluation. The oversize will be determined by the amount of material needed to clean up the bore. Earlier you were planning to use stock pistons. If your bores are still...
I used PPG Omni epoxy primer, then top coated with Acrylic Urethane Enamel that used a hardener. So far it still looks good (two years). I tried a high heat POR 15 product on the exhaust manifolds after sand blasting them and it has failed. The exhaust ports on the head get too hot for most...
Thanks for taking the time to take pictures of all your projects. I know it slows progress to stop and clean hands and take a picture. We all learn by seeing this.
Glow plug threads are 10x1.00 metric. 1/8 NPT thread is pretty close, so a metric die ran over a 1/8 brass pipe fitting will get you the head side of an adapter.
The crank damper has a line on it. The timing plate has a line with a zero on it . You may need to clean things up to see the lines. When the lines match #1 and #4 are at TDC. You will need to divide the circumference of the damper by 4 and mark each quarter. Rotating the damper clockwise 1/4...
I made some angled pods using 2" ABS pipe. I think I cut them 22.5* I had some unused space above the radio, made a metal bracket and cut down the factory plastic. I don't have AC but have an AC dash, so used one of the AC vents for my water temp.
Here is mine under construction. The gray shows dirt and leaks, probably harder to keep looking clean. I know I'm not supposed to have leaks. I clear coated the intake manifold to try and keep the blasted aluminum look, It still looks good but not much contrast with the gray. I painted my...
Those parking brakes often give an indication of the condition of the rear brakes. When I bought my current truck one of the cables was frozen in the housing and wouldn't release. One side was always engaged and did a number on all the brake parts on that side. It is easy enough to check the...
Any spills when adding oil will run down the front. The injection pump gear cover could leak where it meets the block. After cleaning you can watch for leaks there. Near the bottom the front crank seal could have a leak. Odds are it is spilled oil from filling.
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