I would bet something knocked that electrode off. At this point I would be pulling the engine. Maybe it can be saved, but buy your description I would bet not.
If you have a way to get the cab off, it is a very easy engine r and r.
It is just a way for air to get out of the filter housing. Some had a check ball and spring, and others had some kind of rubber piece in there to restrict, or maybe cause one way flow.
It is fine if you made it flow freely, if you dont have drain back issues I wouldnt worry about it. Just hook...
Have seen, and accidentally been a part of some pretty scary misuse of ether, and have not seen any problems from it. Even guys that just use too much every single time, for years.
Have never heard of bending a pushrod with ether use....
This is what has my interest in this, for there to be some sort of blockage, or leakage, or anything affecting oil pressure to that lifter bank, it has to show up at the sender to. Sender is screwed into the end of that passage.
Actually, my thought is missing piston squirter, but honestly, not enough diagnostics have been done. We dont even know what the oil pressure is, or isnt, or where it is or isnt getting to......
I didnt realize this is taken apart already. Have you re sealed the oil cooler recently?
May be worth pulling it off and putting air pressure to the block to check for leaks or if it is actually blocked or restricted somehow.
Hard to say for sure, passage lengths and sizes can affect this.
Have you inspected the lifters? I have seen them where the pushrod seat had flipped sideways, losing pressure.
As far as blowing air back in that passage, it works good to find large leaks if there are any.
Are the lifters on that bank making noise?
I am betting this isnt a blockage type deal, but a leak that is bleeding off pressure, and just shows up more on that galley. I think I would have a gauge in the op sender spot, and at the spot on the left of the block at the same time.
My first step would be to screw a mechanical gauge in. Would also check pressure at the port on the left side of the block near the bellhousing. Everything warmed up.
Look at the rear floor, very common for supercabs to be very rusty back there. Also look at the drip rail area of the roof. Very common to rust through from the inside. Super cabs and crew cabs. Have yet to see it on a reg cab.
Engine pictures would be nice for sure, especially to see how the...
If you could get pics of rear springs and blocks, front springs, and pics of both ends of front springs. Pic of trac bar and drag link. I could give a rec, on what is needed.
It has been awhile since I tested amp draw on these glow plugs, but what I remember was close to 30 amps initialy, quickly falling in the first few seconds, and eventually settling about 10 amps. Per plug.
Also, 1300+ seems really high. Have never seen that with any idi that I have been around. Do you have the bigger outlet housing on the turbo, and bigger down pipe? I know you said you advanced the pump a ways from stock, but unless the timing was seriously retarded before, I think you probably...
I think that I would try to snag that 7.3 idit, and sleeve it. Did it sit with contamination in the oil or cylinder?
I dont recall what the rotor to plunger clearance is, but it is not that hard to just find a 7.3 pump. Might look at the tag on the side of your pump and make sure it is the...
Cavitation is a concern, however I have only seen it once, in many many trucks. 6.9s are not without concerns, and absolutely need head studs.
6.9 pump has smaller plungers in the rotor. Dont know any other differences for sure, but know that putting a 6.9 pump on my 7.3 lost a lot of power.
Those weights arent crazy, I just got the idea from your original post that you may have been expecting more modern diesel type performance out of a 6.9.
Gearing and tire size will be important, being slightly under powered. If you are planning to build another engine, my rec would be a 7.3...
Straps and u bolts are specific to the type of yoke being used. Not interchangeable.
Is this 1330 series or 1350 series u joints? Looks like 1330 series. If so, need to make dang sure that it doesnt require the big cap 1330f in that position.
If I remember correctly, u joint u bolt nuts are...
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