I just took my diesel front case half and installed it on the 460 rear half. All of the gears stay attached to the rear half, so it was easy. You might have to adjust the shims to get the internal bearing preload right, but it’s not hard and the zf-5 service manual is free online and has...
The aftermarket ones, even trustworthy IDI brands, can be wrong. Notice now most of them don’t differentiate between 6.9 lines, van lines, turbo lines, etc. when there are differences between them all from factory. I measured my factory lines by pushing some 80lb fishing line through them to...
One way to check whether you can swap gears from a small block ZF to a diesel one would be to look up parts for each and see if the part number is the same. I know you can’t swap guts from a s5-42 into a s5-47 or vice versa. I don’t know if the internal shafts are different on a 4x4 vs 4x2.
I have gasser gears in my zf5 and I like them. I have 4.10 gears, but also 35” tires so my final drive ratio might not be far from yours depending on your tire size. Second gear is lower which makes starting from second an option in many situations. I find third gear perfect for casually driving...
Here’s the link to the operation manual for the DB2:
https://radionerds.com/images/f/f4/Stanadyne_db2_operation_and_instructions_manuals.pdf
Section 8 talks about fuel supply requirements, and calls for more than 0 but less than 5psi unless otherwise specified. The main thing is to keep the...
At least one of them is a blind hole, because the heads are the same for both left and right and the driver’s side head has a ground wire that’s bolted to the head using one of those holes.
I would drain the fluid and look at it closely, because I’m betting you have glitter in it. Here’s a video I came across that helped me diagnose the input shaft bearing in my ZF5.
I would also drain and check the transfer case fluid, because it could could definitely be coming from there as well.
If you have fabrication ability the service manual has instructions to make an oil cooler pressure tester. I can post pics of the instructions if needed.
I check Amazon and Rock Auto from time to time to see if they have intake manifold gaskets back in stock, and it looks like Amazon finally does:
https://a.co/d/1Y6pUld
For those who haven’t been following, these all went out of stock back in 2020 and for a while you couldn’t get them anywhere...
I have gotten some nasty bruises from that thing when I was standing on a stepstool working at the back of the engine bay, and the stool slips out from under me when I lean too far. I’ve definitely daydreamed about a topside creeper!
I’m late to this thread, but wanted to share that I had the same situation after buying a rebuilt injection pump. For me, the issue was the big o-ring that seals the head to the housing (stanadyne #27245). If the rebuilder isn’t careful they can push the head in too far during assembly, which...
Now that I finally got around to the finishing touches, I wanted to show the final EGT gauge install and what I did for a voltage gauge. I’m very pleased with the final setup. The LCD EGT gauge looks wierd in the photos but is bright and clear in real life. Both of these were very easy to...
If you want to run a high percentage WMO, I think most would recommend cutting it with gasoline instead of diesel. Something called W80 (80% WMO and 20% gasoline) is a common mixture. As other have said though, it sounds like a bette pump is in your future.
I must have got super lucky with my facet, because I’ve heard of several people having your same problem, but mine has been great for 3 years. I run a 50/50 mix of diesel and motor oil, and haven’t had problems running it unheated down to single digit temperatures. Sorry you haven’t had the same...
To add to Nero’s suggestion, you could just run a long clear tube from the output on your fuel pump back to your tank and let it run for 20 minutes to see if you can see air bubbles. That would confirm that you’re sucking air somewhere.
It sure sounds like you’re sucking air. For that to be the case it has to be happening before the fuel pump, because everything after that is pressurized with the pump running. I would pay special attention to the fuel filter connections, and make sure the filters are spun on tight. Hopefully...
Yeah it looks like the output seal is leaking enough to sling ATF in a big circle, I see it on the exhaust pipe there. It should be easy to replace that seal, but before you order anything try wiggling the driveshaft to see if there is a ton of play in that output shaft coming out of the...
You know what, I think my brain was working backwards (as it often does). 15w40 is thicker than 30w when it’s hot. Now I want to run an experiment and see if the different weights make a difference on my oil pressure gauge.
I checked the service manual and the others are correct, minimum 10psi at hot idle:
But the manual also recommends SAE 30wt oil if it’s above freezing outside. I bet you’re running 15w40, which would give a lower hot idle PSI. I’m not recommending a switch, just saying the oil viscosity might...
Man you’re having an adventure!
I had the same situation with my front tank dripping, turned out to be my fuel switching valve was stuck returning fuel to the front tank when I was running from the rear tank, causing it to overflow.
Optical or “non contact” tachometers look kind of like a timing gun. You stick a piece of reflective tape on the crank, and point the tachometer at it and it counts the revolutions.
Good question. If you have one of the tools to set your timing, that’s the best way to do it. I have a Kent Moore Tach-n-time 33300 that I used. Otherwise, best bet is to get a non-contact tachometer for $25 on Amazon and measure the crank pulley at idle. If you have a working tach before you do...
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