You can get a new lock cylinder and matching keys for $18 on Amazon:
Dorman 924-866 Ignition Lock Cylinder Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln / Mercury Models...
I believe you can get the bushing on Amazon too. I would at least take it apart and grease everything before you install it. Now would also be a great time to install a firewall stiffening plate, whether you make it or buy one.
My pedal bushings are worn, and I was toying with the idea of...
I’d also check for play in the linkages between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder. There are bushings in the pedal assembly, and a notorious bushing on the pushrod going into the master cylinder. All these bushings are plastic and likely have play. Look up “heim joint mod” for the one on...
Great find cubey! I wish that gauge had a needle so it matched my other aftermarket gauges a little better, but the price on this one is hard to beat. Let us know what you think, if it seems to work for you I’ll be ordering one as well!
I believe glowshift makes a 0-15 psi electric fuel gauge for about $125. That’s the cheapest I was able to find. I do plan on adding one of these eventually.
I’ve had the Luk 07225 kit in my truck for about 2 years now, but only about 10k miles. I had a perfection clutch before that (both SMF). The luk definitely seems to have more rollover noise than the perfection did, but it’s only really annoying when I’m in slow moving traffic.
I do believe LMC sells the screws, but I’ve had these ones saved on Amazon for a while and they look pretty dang close to the originals to me:
https://a.co/d/3U5UUCp
I’m tempted to buy one or two of every brand of glow plug we can think of, and make a test stand with an automatic timer relay that heats them all for 15 seconds every ten minutes. After 1000 cycles we can compare them all.
This is exactly what project farm found in the video that kdo58 posted. He said he had to run the test twice before he could believe that Howes caused more wear than ULSD alone.
Also, that YouTube channel, Project Farm, is an excellent resource. He tests every tool and product under the sun, and has helped me make many decisions over the years.
I’ve been using the peak multi-season additive for the last couple years. It was on clearance at tractor supply for $2.50 a bottle so I bought everything they had lol (regular price was $19.99). I’ve never had a problem, but I don’t think I’ve ran it more than 10 below. My diesel is also mixed...
I asked this question when I found mine partially melted. Based on what I’ve read, it reads the weak signal from the sensor on the filter and sends 12v to the light in the dash. They are like $60-100 to replace, but I was able to open mine up and replace the individual electrical component that...
I don’t have a strainer in the tank, instead I have one of these on the fuel line:
K&N 81-0300 Replacement Fuel Filter https://a.co/d/g4RI26J
The pex tube was a super snug fit over the pickup tube in the tank, so I jammed it on as far as I could get it and felt confident it would stay there. I...
I leave mine plugged in year round because I don’t want the connection point to get full of gunk and road debris. I protected the cord with some heat resistant split loom. And zip tied it out of the way.
I’d be curious to put a timing meter on a truck that has been timed by ear to see how close they got it. I got lucky and snagged a timing meter off of FB marketplace for $50 so it was a no-brainer for me. The magnetic pickup was fiddly, but I got it to work. On my rebuilt IP the default timing...
A lot of times I can stick the box end of a wrench on the inside and position it so it catches against something so I can rotate it from the other side. Sometimes I stick a cheater pipe on it so it extends out and hits something.
I definitely don’t view a spare engine as a necessity, I just want one so I can have the experience of tearing down and rebuilding an engine without having my truck out of commission for months. Where I live (Ohio), I see IDI engines or part-outs pretty regularly, and I would consider $500 a...
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