6k+ miles oil update:
Pump from seal started leaking decent amount so i pulled it apart and inspected it. everything looked great no wear on the pump gears or shafts/bearings. For longevity I replaced the front bearing, which i found at mcmaster. 11/16 OD 1/2 ID needle bearing. I also replaced...
consider that the fuel filter light is a vacuum activated switch. it turns on when your IP's internal transfer pump is pulling a negative space on the clean side of your fuel filter. in most cases indicating a clogged filter. but any other blockage or lift pump failure will cause it to light up...
Im using greasecar.com 3 port valve bodies which use Hydraforce sv98-t39s 12v spool valves.
On the switch to wvo, i hit the supply and the return at the same time. When purging, i hit the supply back to diesel then wait a mile or so then flip the return back to the diesel tank.
If you're not...
I love the idea, personally have been thinking of a good way to vac oil instead of pump. I have a ~10gpm gear pump used or transferring but it's just not fast enough. the vac chamber with a 1-1/4" hose or so would move a ton of oil fast. I highly encourage you to build this if you have the...
Already have had a few below freezing mornings, and yes I'm driving about 10 mins on straight diesel through the factory fuel system to warm the oil up. Like i said with this pump setup and heat exchanger it heats the whole tank up pretty fast. My whole idea with the high flow pump and...
So i am at probably a bit over 3000 miles so far running pure oil now since i built the system. Things of note/modifications made:
-The pump has held up great so far, save for the seal seeping a wee bit. I need to make a new pulley for it that runs more true.
-Regulators. Went through 2...
i am acutely aware
I ended up skipping the clutch. just couldnt make it work. Figured everything else runs without a clutch, save the AC of course.. i trust my chinese idler pulley to hold through and through so why wouldn't i trust this skookum pump with constantly lubricated needle...
Sounds like a pita to change the harness out. Before i rigged up my manual switch i took a plug and hooked it up with jumper cables just to see how long it took to heat to red or so. Use that as a mental image while pressing the button.. 5-6 seconds or so
Ended up plumbing in a tank return off of the 3/8 npt port on that 4 way heading out of the second filter. Then, I added another regulator in between the gauge/valve going to IP. have it down to 10psi at idle and it drops when revved. not sure if i can find a sweet spot in there. is over 7 psi...
yes, that's why i figured it was smoking a bit funny. switch back to diesel and it clears up. lile i said i didnt run it very long like that maybe 5 mins knowing the pressure was too high. I think my pump is moving more volume than the regulator can return so its causing a bottleneck. when i...
Well guys, after months of planning scheming and buying parts i finally touched the solenoid wires to the barry today and switched my 7.3 IDI to running straight wvo. didnt take any pics or video cause i was too busy monitoring things and thinking but i will. belt driven viking gear pump, heat...
ammonia boils around -30 F or so. how long has the oil been sitting, and i would assume un-pressurized? only concern would be ammonia trapped in the oil, which can happen in the system but at atmospheric pressure it likely has evaporated out. Not too sure otherwise but it's probably fine. I'm...
Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but wouldn't putting the cover on incorrectly and causing a "runaway" situation really just be a "full throttle" situation? cause the metering valve can only open so far right? just wondering cause if that's the case, the pump still cant go past it's governed...
Just did mine the other day, i put the belt on first and then went to put the fan on, realized it was going to be a lot easier to slack the belt again and turn the pulley onto the fan instead of trying to wrangle the fan. Then put the belt back on the give the fan a little snug turn. This is...
Do you know if its the same u joint between the old and new style yokes? Thanks guys I appreciate the information, trying to scour for specific information like this is frustrating
So I have 2 10.25 rears, one is a 1993 dually with 4.10s and the other is a 1997 SRW parts truck with 3.55s. Does anyone know if its possible or feasible to just swap out the 4.10s with the 3.55? planning at the minimum to have to do a full setup on it, is there anything else that would be a...
So, before i had any of the dash back together i did have that exact ground off to hit it with sandpaper on the terminal and the firewall, and it tested good continuity between the copper and the cab. I did also check to see that ground was connected to the engine, but not how well. I may just...
Little update. Got all the bulbs changed out on the front end, all the lights work when they're supposed to. I think one of the broken bulbs filament that was hanging there was touching the frame maybe and grounding out? idk. either way it works.
Still having an issue with the Tach though, it...
Thank your for the information and diagrams franklin, the back of the truck wiring is a mess, but I'm going to chase grounds going back that way today if i can get it pulled over the pit. Non stock everything back there, custom flatbed on the truck. Total mess, wires hanging everywhere and such...
Uhh.. Hooked the radio up just for S's and G's and now my previous issue is gone, blower works fine alongside the tach. but now, my right turn signal and the dash illumination seem to have combined themselves, hazards work with the headlight switch off, right turn blinks with switch off but...
Yep, dead center in the dash. that would make sense. So for now I'm going to assume i dont need it, take the old 4 pin connector and put the colored wires into it, and try and ground out the black on the dash support. Having a weird ground issue with the cluster where the tach stops working when...
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