I think I actually like the black duct tape baling wire idea better. I'm not sure if part of it was brittle plastic and part of it was my removal technique. I'm not quite sure how I'm supposed to actually get the bezel around column without breaking it. Therefore duct tape and wire will be...
I tried unplugging and replugging but I didn't clean them. I'll take some alcohol to the prongs and I'll trace the wires a bit and see if anything looks suspicious.
Do you know if I have to remove the thermostat housing in order to flush the coolant properly?
I've ordered a new Champion radiator that I'm expecting this week. I found this detailed article on flushing coolant:
https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-coolant-flush.html
They claim I need to remove the thermostat to do a proper flush.
First, is that true?
Second, my cold high...
I threw it all back together and so far it seems to work fine. I decided not to lubricants the switch and if things seem to continue to be strange I can drop the column easily and replace that.
Yeah, I figure my best bet is a pick and pull.
I know this probably isn't the cheapest way to do this but wouldn't this work also? It's a manual battery charger so it doesn't need to detect power to charge.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10250-amp-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60581.html
Any thoughts on lubrication in here? This is the par that the rod attaches down under the dash. I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt... With it off it seems to run so smooth it makes me think the issue lies in here. Maybe di-electric grease since it has contacts?
At any rate I lubricated the...
I like this idea! White lithium do the trick?
Gotta love when internal "manliness" turns on and the idea for brut strength takes over. I think its usually frustration and happens to me nearly every time I work on this stuff. This is also probably why I don't golf... haha
Yeah this is the gear for the ignition switch which does run along a gear. The gear it runs along seems fine and very greasy. I put it in it when it was taken apart and turned the key back and forth and it all seemed to go smoothly. I havent tried moving the switch at the base which I think...
My key will intermittently get stuck in the "ON" position. The only way that seemed to free it up would be turning the engine on then off. I took the steering wheel off to check out the linkage and gears etc. Noting seems to be off to the un-trained eye. I've uploaded these pictures so maybe...
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to start a separate thread for the key getting stuck issue because I had to start working on that before I could start with the window.
Haha that’s a great tip. When I turned the engine on the window went up. Coincidence?
I would keep trying except the key has been tending to get stuck in “on” so I’m going to take the steering wheel off and deal with that tomorrow
Passenger side power window is stuck down. The switch on the drivers side doesn’t get her going either. I hear a click when I flip the switch up and down on both sides but don’t get any response. I have the panel off right now since I’m replacing the seals and I tried assisting the Window...
Seems like the original poster isn't very active anymore. For those of you who have installed the 4 row (or 3 row) Champion radiators, did you keep the OEM fan?
I noticed a small leak on the outlet hose. When I get the new radiator I'm going to re-do all the hoses and everything.
If I purchase this Champion radiator for my year and make do you think I can keep my fan?
shoot, I’m over in California. That’s kind of you to offer.
The champion radiator is only like $100-$150 more than the one I found on Amazon. I read elsewhere that someone was happy with that radiator. They had only run it for a year but seemed good to them so far
Thanks for sharing! I think the call might be trying something on the cheaper end and buying accurate after market gauges and keeping an eye on everything.
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