If your plugs are not working correctly and you have air in the lines then it might take A LOT of cranking. Even with good glowplugs I have had to crank for far longer than I would have thought, but this was with the mechanical fuel pump. Although some would consider an electric pump less...
After buying all the parts to make my own harnesses I'm surprised you aren't charging more. I certainly think $35 + S&H is more than fair especially since I don't know of anyone else who offers new replacement harnesses.:Thumbs Up:cheers:
So with a number of people having issues with their Facet lift pumps are we working our way towards NOT recommending them? Or at least a significant "Your Mileage May Vary" disclaimer? With the pump listed in my sig I have zero issues but admittedly less confidence now than when I first...
Any paperwork for past vehicle repairs? I would consider it a red flag if a vehicle that old didn't have a folder of receipts. I know not everybody keeps immaculate records but it is at least a sign that someone cared enough to keep records.
And yeah it is interesting to see the IDIs slowly...
I live near Santa Cruz and there are many, many people living in all sorts of vehicles. Mostly I see older motorhomes, a handful of cabover setups, minivans, and then there are the people who build custom setups out of wood. One guy around town built one with an Egyptian sarcophagus on top...
Welcome to Oilburners. One piece of advice from someone who also owns a 1992 F250: When talking to an employee at the parts counter be sure to specify whether you have an early '92 with V-belts or a late '92 with a serpentine belt setup. This will save headache and confusion.
Hmmm, F26E is supposed to be the right one. I wonder if they sent you the wrong part/s?
I did come across someone else who had issues with the notches/tab alignment, so they cut new ones.
Yeah, if you can afford it, or junkyard it, the 3g swap/upgrade is well worth it. I had never even replaced an alternator before I did mine and still managed to have everything done in a couple hours. Some good write-ups available online here and other sites as well.
I would second the notion that the RABS bypass is suspect. I too have replaced every bit of my brake system, except for the RABS valve, and still only have OK braking. If you roll heavy frequently then the hydroboost swap would be the way to go. As I roughly recall, vac brakes max out around...
Found this. Are the fuel specs in bold Ford's or Stanadyne's? And although this info is listed in regards to IDI Turbo engines would the same apply to N/A? I assume it would.
7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel Engine Performance Specifications
Engine Model A-185, A-166
Number of Cylinders 8
Configuration...
From what I have read here the factory fuel heater is a joke anyway and not very efficient. Deleting the factory heater and installing an aftermarket heater would be my choice if I lived where the temps got really low.
I went the cheap and fast route but it has worked for several years...
Have you tried a manual switch for the GPs? http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm for more info.
As long as your relay is good and the wiring is intact your plugs should glow.
Have you checked for a melted connector anywhere?
My truck had issues with GPs when I purchased it...
If I ever decide I want more lift I will definitely do the front shackle reversal and Superuty spring swap. From what I have read most people seem to like the ride of the "U" code Superduty springs, and I think PMF makes a bolt on kit that doesn't require trimming the front bumper.
Is the engine turning over slow?
If so, then perhaps your battery cable terminals need a good cleaning. I had an intermittent issue with this and a good cleaning always worked.
If you try the ATF trick listen to the engine after you fill the filter and start the engine--you will notice the engine sounds/runs a bit different when the ATF hits the injectors. When I did this I shut off the engine about 30 seconds after the engine sound changed--seemed to help.
I recently had a slight surging at random moments and ran a bottle of Amsoil Diesel Injector Clean through the system and the surging seems to have gone away.
Has your degas/overflow bottle filled up during any of these unfortunate events?
Kind of sounds like your rad cap could be bad since it should release excess pressure, which obviously is not happening. Hope it's sumpin' simple and stupid like a rad cap. Good luck!
Dana 60 front axle? I had a similar experience after I swapped a D60 onto my truck. Parked at an angle with passenger tire lower than driver and a small amount of gear oil would leak out. This continued for a while so I did some reading and came across quite a few posts on various forums...
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