You could take a look here: https://lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Interior-Paint-Spray-Dye
Yes, the paint is for Mustangs, but they have several shades of red. I found a shade of blue that was very close to the blue in my OBS cab.
You can also have interior paint mixed and matched at some...
Not all the cooling system sealers cause problems - you just need to be careful what sealer you use. Irontite was suggested to me by Russ (typ4) when the headgasket at the rear of the driver's side head starting weeping coolant. The "particles" are so fine you can't hardly see them. The heater...
Thanks for all the input, Guys! I replaced the glow plug harness a few years ago with a brand new OEM GP harness that I got from Uhaul, so that "should" still be in good shape. I got one of the last OEM GP harnesses that Uhaul had. While No. 7 has gone out 3 times, No. 5, No. 4 and No. 2 have...
Just an update - I continue to have glow plugs burn out prematurely. I think I have changed the No. 7 plug 3 times total now, and also had to change out No. 5 and No. 2. I finally investigated the controller and changed it out for another controller I had on hand. The old controller was glowing...
I have a Wolverine blanket heater that I run on my fuel filter in the winter. I guess I am going to have to get another for the Facet fuel pump. It was 31 below here on Thursday and the Facet could only manage 1-2 psi at idle. The truck would idle, but that was about it. It is 37 above here...
You should be able to plug that extra fitting from the heater hose tee with a brass pipe plug you can get at any hardware store. Not 100% sure on the size right now, but should be 1/2" NPT. That connection to heater hoses is only there to redirect a little hot coolant coming from the head back...
Well, it looks like Wes hit this one on the head - the Duralift does not like extreme cold! It "warmed" up to about 15 above this afternoon and the gauge was at 6.5 psi at idle. On the trip home, the fuel pressure would not drop below 3 psi with my foot to the floor pulling a hill. The Duralift...
That won't be it - that little fuel heater in the filter head wasn't good for anything. I am beginning to suspect that the Duralift gets sluggish when it gets really cold. I have had mine installed for just over a year, and this was the first really cold day since then. I am not impressed with...
I know Kevo is (or was) running a Facet Duralift, but Jayro are you also running a Facet Duralift? I had issues with my truck at 16 below this morning. Truck did not die but the filter light came on and there was little fuel pressure but she stayed running. I am running winterized fuel with...
We are actually talking about the Facet here and not the fuel heater, but since you brought it up, this is a pretty healthy heater- forget the wattage right now but it does warm the filter - so yeah it is doing jack Jasper! It kept the truck running in subzero temps when I was having trouble...
I will add another observation to this thread concerning the Facet Duralift. It was 16 below here this morning (ambient temperature - not the windchill factored in) and when I stared the truck, the fuel pressure gauge was reading around 3.5 psi after the filter head. Uh-oh, that doesn't look...
Oh, that is good to know! Not going to run 19 psi in my coolant system. That is just asking for more trouble. I guess I will do a little more research on the Mishimoto radiators pertaining to that. Thanks for your heads up on that!
Thanks to all who have contributed their experiences with Champion radiators to this thread. My three row core Champion that I installed last winter has now started seeping a little coolant at the lower driver's side tank/core brazing. So, the three row nearly made it a year! No more Champions...
Forgot to mention: I also have a decent OEM N/A Y-pipe and Walker intermediate pipe. I would hope somebody could use the Y-pipe but I am not going to ship it. The shipping cost would be way more than the thing is worth. I also have the OEM N/A air cleaner assembly (no plastic intake tube...
I had typ4 rebuild my turbo, and he supplied the replacement "olive" seals for the turbo oil feed line. I made sure the oil feed line (the OEM metal tubing) was clean inside before I installed it and had no issues. I also made sure that the adapter fitting between the block and the feed line was...
I have a few parts that I no longer need since I installed a factory turbo kit. I have the N/A valves covers which are still in pretty decent shape. The remaining emissions sticker on the driver's side cover is still readable. Not much rust and come with the bolts and "washers". I also have the...
Yep, that is a true statement right there - that air box has to be removed to do just about anything on top of the motor. Fortunately, it is easy to remove and only takes about 5 minutes to do so.
It looks like it is missing the factory air intake plenum/air filter castings - see the attached pic of the factory turbo kit I installed on my N/A truck. It is the big black aluminum casting that says "Ford Turbo" on it, and another aluminum "box" underneath that. If you are doing an IC and/or...
Bill here are the auto hub service instructions from the 1993 Ford Service Manual. My 1994 F350 has the auto hubs shown in the manual. Yours seem to different - at least I have not seen that bearing in the hubs on my truck. When I started having trouble with one of my hubs, I found that wheel...
Pictured is what comes in the F1TZ-1K106-A hub kit:
DaytonaBill, I am not sure if these parts are the same as the parts you have in your auto hubs - yours seem to be different. The pictured parts match the parts in my 1994 F350 auto hubs with the exception of the "key" pictured inside the...
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