I had this happen a few years back and I found that from somebody cranking the hell out of the nut the Metal area that goes into the injector was distorted. So when the next time you do the returns the end of the line is distorted and won't seal up properly. Then you get a leaky cap no matter...
where did you pick that up? Ever since I turbo'd my truck I've been guessing with my dipstick. Picked up an aftermarket one but it's not quite the right length.
It's not the sending units or lift pump.If yer tank is all muddied up you will burn thru fuel filters to the point where you could buy a new tank. Believe me i know just get rid of the old tanks. Trust me
To the OP, if you choose to drop the turbo, pump, and injectors let me know. I turbo'd my '91 a few years back and need cores for the pump and injectors. I seem to have hit the wall when it comes to fuelling.
Nice score on the trans. The one project I really want to do is get rid of the e40d and go manual trans. but finding a donor with everything I need is just about impossible.
The pickup is on the end of the hose on the sending unit.Looks like a shower head. I would change out the fuel filter. My 87 would run for a little bit then die cause the fuel filter would load up. If it's been sitting that should be one of the first things to change anyway.
I can't even find out what compressor I have . No tags or anything. I know it's factory, and that's about it. Tried with the vin on a few parts sites and nothing. Rockauto has a v belt setup and I thing that;s what I have to go with. And whatever tube that comes with it.
On rockauto the complete kit is for sale. Everything except hoses. Compressor, condenser, etc. It's being sold as a complete kit with seals so I guess everything I need is there. I don't know much about a/c systems. Never had working a/c.
Thanks for the reply. The price to replace came down so I'm going to pull the trigger on this. It was converted to r134a while back but it has ever held for me.
Going to be replacing the complete A/C on the 91 . Not the hoses but just about everything else. Do I need to replace the condenser or can I leave it. I read that earlier trucks had larger tubing in the condenser so clogging up was never an issue. What do y'all say? I'd have to pull a ton more...
No I don't have a coolant gauge. But the idiot one used to always be on the n and after the turbo and champion rad it heats up quick. Up pastthe halfway point. Smoking hot in the cab. I have a Motorcraft thermostat. I can't hear the fan lock up. Truck is pretty loud. And at speed I have the...
Yeah I think I need one of these. I have a champion radiator that normally runs hot, and pulling the skidsteer just makes it worse. They ought to make a cooling system that runs on r134. Something like a fridge. Or at least use it to cool the coolant.
You'll Need a tps on the pump. The vrv is vacuum operated. A different trans crossmember. Trans controller. Look for a proper length driveshaft. The od lockout button. Misc wiring I suppose . Others will chime in.
You get a full exhaust with that. Think about how much to ship that too. if you stay pretty much stock you won't have to stud. But Def think about the pump and injectors first if they haven't been replaced yet. That's the first thing, then turbo. I pull a dump trailer too and you Def want a...
Well if you are going pistons and all, Then stud the motor and and go big on the turbo. Trade the old turbo in for a larger one and go for a 3 inch downpipe. New pump, turbo, etc. Pull the motor, put all the new parts on and drop it back in
You will need a different dipstick tube for the trans. I added a banks trans command also. Makes a difference shifting. That's if you have a e4od. I just did this whole job. For 700 I would get it. You will want to rebuild the turbo. I did aftermarketoil feed line, crossover pipe. Get the...
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