All modern production gears are 10.5 and long spline because it’s interchangeable. I have the yoke off a short spline pinion on my long spline 3.73 gears. Axle was a 10.25 out of a 94, new gears are 10.5 on a Detroit truetrac.
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Well I appreciate all the tips, I guess I just got lucky on one that doesn’t want to line up. I’ll drill out those holes, maybe call in some reinforcements and keep trying. If any of you gurus are passing through Indiana, I’ll buy beer and pizza lol
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There is no obvious hex, they appear threaded all the way down. Even have different sized nuts, someone has definitely been in there replacing things. I can run the nuts down on the wye until it won’t budge
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Well, got off work a few hours ago and tried again. Chucked up a 3/8 drill bit and it fell in the holes in the oil drain, someone beat me to that. Loosened the oil drain/pedestal from the intake. Heated the up pipe with a propane torch. Loosened the wye got it barely seated then tightened it a...
Nice tip on the bolt holes, didn’t think about that. I haven’t messaged him, I doubt it’s something he did wrong. Figured he’d chime in here.
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You read correctly
These are the 2 things I can not get lined up at the same time. I have the pedestal mounted solid and the wye pretty tight to the manifold but not fully. Studs are screwed into the bottom of the bearing housing of the turbo since I can’t get them in through the bottom of the...
It’s a 83 6.9. Factory ford turbo. Looking for advice like that vw motor swap because I’ve got to be missing something simple lol
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So I’m finally getting around to installing the factory turbo kit I got off Russ almost 2 years ago and I’m having some issues. I can’t get the up pipe from the turbo to slide down into the wye. I tried it first with the studs screwed in the center housing for the oil drain mount and the wye...
I have a truetrac in my 83 f350 and have no complaints. If I pull one tire off in the grass and the other on dry pavement, quickly release the clutch with a little throttle, the tire on pavement chirps. Normal daily driving and towing, it’s completely unnoticed.
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I’d love to come meet all you guys but I really don’t see myself driving much more than 2 hours. That’s a pretty big circle though
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I remember reading on here something about the shaft that drives the head/rotor has a place that’s designed to shear if it locks up.
Sometimes I feel like an idiot trying remember stuff wes says lol
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I’ve got a 25’ 14k gooseneck I load with what ever, mostly vehicles or tractors. Built sides for it so I can help people move, make a big run to the scrap yard, or haul rock if needed. Don’t have access to a dump trailer
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Every other oil change I put a bottle of seafoam in the crankcase while I’m pulling the truck into the garage. Thoughts on that?
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Yeah, that’s where I was going with that. I didn’t want people to think vacuum could diagnose head gasket problems. The belt driven vacuum pump tied into a boost gauge would give false readings on both ends
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Just buy the boost gauge that covers the range you’ll be running in. Most idi’s will be fine with a 0-15. Everything you read about vacuum was probably for a naturally aspirated gasoline engine which can tell you a lot but in these motors, you’d essentially only be able to see vacuum pump...
Different tires will require different pressure to wear properly. I adjust my rear tire pressure based on load. My fronts seam to like about 45psi, rear I run 35 empty, 50 when I went and picked up a 7.3 engine, 70-80 when pulling my gooseneck depending on load. Don’t forget as tires heat up...
Like these guys said, spend the money and do it right the first time with one of those 4. Check out the hall of shame here to see what other “rebuilders” are putting out
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Usually pinion bearings only make noise when engine braking at higher speeds like you describe. Have to hear it to be sure but it’s something to look into
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