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Turbo install

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by austin92, Jan 13, 2020.

  1. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    So I’m finally getting around to installing the factory turbo kit I got off Russ almost 2 years ago and I’m having some issues. I can’t get the up pipe from the turbo to slide down into the wye. I tried it first with the studs screwed in the center housing for the oil drain mount and the wye loose and it wouldn’t go so I took the studs out, wouldn’t go, tightened up the wye to manifold bolts and it went half way in but I couldn’t thread the studs up from the bottom to tighten it to the oil drain. Pulled it back out, put the studs in and now it won’t go down into the wye. I fought it for 2 hours before I called a buddy to come help and we fought it for another 2 hours. I don’t know if I’m missing something here or there’s something wrong with my truck or the turbo kit. I’m just completely lost and stressed out. Pretty much can’t line up the wye-up pipe and oil drain at the same time...


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  2. saburai

    saburai Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Take a breath, relax and don't stress. If you got the kit from Russ rest assured Pat it is as it should be. That being said having done this a couple times, it's fidgety and has to be just right for it to go in. I'm sure one of the guys that can do this in their sleep will chime in and offer some more Sage advice.
     
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  3. saburai

    saburai Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I don't know if you know it, but on an old school Volkswagen bug the engine comes out by removing four bolts an electrical connection and the throttle cable. It comes out from the bottom, you use two jacks, one under the engine at the oil sump and the other on the transmission. Guys that are familiar with it can drop an engine in 15 minutes solo. At competitions, a team of two guys will do it well under 5 minutes. I say all this because when I use to own a shop, I watched some guys who were professional mechanics in a shop down the alley spend an entire day trying to pull the engine from the top side as you would on most vehicles. I offered to help, when I saw what they were doing but since we weren't great friends, they declined. Eventually, they came to our shop with their tails between their legs asking how to do it. Somebody will guide you through this without a problem. Did I mention that it's fidgety:confused:
     
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  4. Chris Helton

    Chris Helton Registered User

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    First off, year of truck, and what kind of turbo are you installing? If it is an 088 or 085, things need to be aligned just right, in the right order, to go in smoothly.
     
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  5. ISPKI

    ISPKI Welding/metallurgical engineer/Metalsmith

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    Out of curiosity, is there a good tech article on here for installing the common turbos on these platforms? 085, 088, 093, and Banks 1st and 2nd gen? I have a sidewinder setup for my truck and having a solid step by step for first time installers would be invaluable.
     
  6. dgr

    dgr Full Access Member

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    There are a couple
    https://www.oilburners.net/forums/idi-tech-article.80/
     
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  7. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    It’s a 83 6.9. Factory ford turbo. Looking for advice like that vw motor swap because I’ve got to be missing something simple lol


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  8. gandalf

    gandalf Senior Member

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    I have the Banks installation manual for their gen 1 turbo if anyone needs it. It's in pdf format, too large for posting. It must go by email. I've sent it to enough people I'm almost surprised it hasn't been put in the tech section.
     
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  9. Ironman03R

    Ironman03R Full Access Member

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    Still got my number? Give me call tomorrow I'll be on the road most of the day.
     
  10. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    If I'm reading this right, you can't get the turbo and Y pipe together? I used to have the turbo and pedestal mounted tightly (as if it's already running) then I'd slide the Y pipe in from the bottom. You have removed the studs from the passenger's side exhaust manifold, right? They will make it much harder to remove/install the Y pipe. The Factory turbo used bolts instead of studs here.
     
  11. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    You read correctly [​IMG][​IMG]
    These are the 2 things I can not get lined up at the same time. I have the pedestal mounted solid and the wye pretty tight to the manifold but not fully. Studs are screwed into the bottom of the bearing housing of the turbo since I can’t get them in through the bottom of the oil drain/pedestal. I have not tried it the way you mentioned, also was unaware the wye used/(needed?)bolts. Right now I’m using the factory studs. I don’t know if they’d even come out...


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  12. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    Did you ask Russ since it’s his kit? I install the turbo, up pipe and pedestal as an assembly. Leave the y pipe bolted hand tight, and drill out the pedestal holes to 3/8” for an easier install.
     
  13. david85

    david85 Full Access Member

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    Well first off, congrats on having a nice kit from Russ. The result on your truck will be all the more satisfying when its back together.

    Ok, I have an idea on what might be going on.

    Are you trying to install the turbo and up pipe as an assembly first? And then drop them down onto the pedistal (2) and wye pipe(4) at the same time? If so, I can see why you're having trouble.

    The wye pipe(4) is supposed to go on after the turbo and up pipe are installed on the engine, since it has the swivel coupling to absorb any alignment issues. The pedistal(2) can't really move around much.

    Try getting the turbocharger(1) and up pipe(4) first. No need to torque the pedistal(2) bolts down just yet. Just snug it in place for now.

    Now go under the truck and try to get the wye pipe(4) in place from below. The coupling is snug almost to the point of interference fit. A small propane torch can loosen the up pipe(5) a little and things slide together. No need get it cherry red, just a little warmer than the wye pipe(4) so you can still handle it with leather gloves. A small amount of heat makes a big difference.

    Also, you don't have to feel like the coupling needs to fully insert into the up pipe(5) to the point where the machined neck-down is no longer visible on the wye pipe(4). If you get an even, solid seal to the exhaust manifold, it's good enough. These kits are designed to allow for some tolerance.

    ATS 093 Kit.jpeg
     
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  14. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    Nice tip on the bolt holes, didn’t think about that. I haven’t messaged him, I doubt it’s something he did wrong. Figured he’d chime in here.


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  15. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    Lots of good advice, thank you. Thank you everyone actually. Lot of ideas I hadn’t thought of


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