I normally don't like pulling down on the suspension when hauling a vehicle. Maybe you can get away with setting a couple blocks of wood between the frame and axel with about an 1" or 2 gap and pull it down to them with a chain from the truck frame to the trailer. That would give you a solid tie...
I just installed a 98 e350 dually axel from a shuttle bus under my 94 SRW F350. The perches and shock hangers needed moved in 2" on each side. Bus was 49" center perch to center and the truck was 45".
That looks like the short wide rad that will bolt right into the gas core support. Atleast the old rad from my 86 bolted directly into my brothers 83 with a 351w and I was even able to stretch his hoses enough to go on. Needless to say his cooling problems ended.
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No wonder no one ever bought one, a 390 v8 with near 400 ft/lb of torque.... Or the lazy 4 banger with 150 hahaha I know what I would have done if I was checking the boxes back in 1968
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The project truck took a turn for the fat a$$ side, dually rear and flat bed.
Truck has 180k on it, I expect the rear to be the same. I can get picture of it and the internals later on. Looks like a 1350 yoke and it should be the long pinion. Comes hub to hub, yoke to pan.
$200 OBO to the...
I run either 15-40 or straight 30 in any old tractor. They ain't very picky.
As for the Rpms, I've seen my tach hit 4000 before pulling heavy up hills. My old engine I played with the gov spring too much, I could hit 4400 on my tach with that one. 230k on the 6.9 pulling an empty trailer...
I usually store injectors in metal coffee cans full diesel or motor oil. Always made the most sense to me to store them wet
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Ohhhh you got a turbo. Well I can truly say I missed that part in the thread or forgot it.
Now a pyro to make sure you don't melt Pistons or crack heads is recommended.
Don't forget that a turbo model is still only 190 hp, new, at the flywheel.
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Welcome to the reality of the Idi world.
You can squeeze a few HP out of a NA. You can add a couple more with a turbo. At the end of the day, you just have to accept the fact that you own a slow, reliable, maintenance loving truck.
At least you didn't pull a Frank... I just replaced a cooler on my new truck (94 f350) and when I started it I had oil full flow out the header. Turns out a cracked the top corner on the front header. Good times.
Let me know if you need a new bundle. I have a few too many spares.
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Find out what the frame width of the donor truck is. If it's a Can and Chassis model then the axle is narrower. Yours should be like 37-38" and a C&C is 34"
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Navistar installed them circa ~1994. As you said, these plugs can be installed correctly without the tool if you know what your doing. It's easiest to practice on tractors where the freeze plugs are in the open and easy to get to if they are wrong. Couple years of practice and you learn a few...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but there are 2 freeze plugs above the rear main seal plate on the very back of the block right? Inside the bell housing behind the flex plate....
So as I'm putting together a basket case of a 94 factory turbo i Finally got my core support fixed, radiator installed...
One parts truck didn't have them like I thought it did, only have one set that's on a truck I'm putting together. Let me check one more parts truck at the farm, it ought to have them.
You guys want just the bracket that bolts to the frame correct? Not the arms that attach to the sway bar...
That works, but after so many you don't feel like doing any more work. And what you do get done is shotty.... And on that note I think I'm done for the night myself.
Man oh man, your order just keeps getting bigger. If I remember tonight I'll take a look for them. I know I have a set of them somewhere.
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