I took the starter out to change the block heater. It was so long I barely had room to get it out. Now I'm thinking I should have put in a newer starter while I was in there.
Oh, well, it'll get its turn in the shop again next weekend, and I'll definitely check the grounds.
I guess I can cut...
Batteries are a bit over a year old, NAPA's best.
The starter on that truck is the longest I've ever seen on one of these old rigs. I'm guessing it's pretty old. I guess it could be battery cables, too, or could be both.
When the engine is room temperature the starter will crank the engine quickly for a couple rotations, then it slows way down, have to crank 15++ seconds to get it to start. When the engine is warm, it starts before the starter slows down.
The cheapie digital voltage gauge I have stuck in the...
CDD and R&D both sell return kits that should be the best quality available.
Dregs Garage occasionally makes a run of very nice brass return caps. I've had excellent success with those, but they're expensive, and shouldn't be necessary.
Our IDI pickups have 00gauge between the batteries, and from the block to the negative terminals, and 0000gauge from the passenger side positive to the starter. I wouldn't go smaller than that, and if you're relocating behind the cab, might want to go bigger.
It's normal to NOT fuse the starter cables. I'd guess our starters have a surge current of 600+A and a steady current close to 400A. Has anyone measured those currents? Whatever the real numbers are, I doubt a 300A fuse would work.
I'd follow standard practice, and not fuse it.
Where did you...
Or they're made in China, of the finest Chinesium. Won't break because they'll stretch like taffy, or won't stretch because they'll shatter like pot metal, some of each in every batch.
Baumann is the maker of the USShift brand.
There is a bundle of wires running from the solenoid connector on the transmission to a connector on the controller box. Those are new wires not flaky Ford originals, part of the wiring harness that came with the controller.
I have unplugged both...
This is interesting, that supplier Old Goat mentioned has this for the T444. Wonder if that's what has Fumoto confused?
https://www.heavydutypros.com/navistar-drain-plug-kit-442035.aspx
I really want one of those top side creepers. In the mean time, I have a step that hooks over the tire, and I usually go at things from the side. I also have a bench made from some 2x12s that's bumper height, haven't used it in a while.
It's the Fumoto F101. Fumoto and this outfit both appear to have them in stock?
https://industrialtecsupply.com/products/fumoto-f101n-1-2-20-unf-oil-drain-valve-68-03-jeep-older-ford-chevy-dodge
Or just go to the parts store and spend a buck or two on a gasket. That's always been my choice...
I have a '94 E350 with an e4od and a US Shift controller. When I start it cold and put it in gear, I often get a "solenoid circuit open" error. Usually it's the B circuit, sometimes the coast clutch circuit. Because this is the US Shift controller, I can read the error right on the display, no...
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