I had the early box like in your picture on my 93 with the 088 box. When I ran it hard my filter minder would set to restriction. I had to cut another round hole in the air box to get enough air flow to keep the filter minder from showing air restriction. Also that box uses a special k&n filter...
Hydro boost works with rabs. The braking should be much more reliable when stopping a load. I converted to hydro boost 6 years ago and have never regretted it. You need to drive one with it if you can, no comparison in stopping power.
Try this
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi_qPDymIf_AhVdIkQIHfJSBNIQFnoECA8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fradionerds.com%2Fimages%2Ff%2Ff4%2FStanadyne_db2_operation_and_instructions_manuals.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3EysekEd-p4PPGLzoCGHUm
If your copper washer was leaking you would have carbon on the injector threads. You’ve got heat traveling up the fuel feed of your injector. Aluminum rails may not melt like plastic caps but you’re not fixing the problem. It’s only one cap melting? There’s a problem with that injector.
Sounds like your tensioner is worn out if it is wobbling. Pull it off and see if there’s a bushing that can be replaced. May just be the bearing has bit the dust. I saw your other thread about a grinding sound.
I’d hand tighten as tight as possible, there’s a lot of vibration going on it may be backing the filter off and allowing gasket to push out. If it’s still blowing out I’d check my actual oil pressure with a gauge (not dash oil gauge). There is a valve in the oil filter head, I know it will cause...
If it’s not the lock cylinder itself it is probably one of the nylon bushings that attach the rod to the lock mechanism. Of course it could be dry and need lubricant.
It could still be your relay. You can have volts but no current. Put one lead on the power lug and the other on the load lug and see if you’re dropping any voltage across the relay contacts. If no voltage drop, check resistance on a couple of glow plugs.
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