These old trucks are nice, and I get being fond of it. I am of mine also;)
If the heads are too expensive to be machined, you may luck out at a PnP and doing the work yourself. Good project to learn, it's not terribly hard either unless you don't like instructions o_O
I have a IDI pdf I can...
Truck looks worth fixing to me. Once it's rebuilt you already know it's done vs buying another truck with no history. Imo, you know what you've fixed on your truck, why buy another truck where eventually you'll put more money into it in the long run? Cheaper keeping your own truck and fixing it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1686729-amazon-fuel-sendor-gas-diesel-20-a.html
This is a complete instruction guide I made on FTE forum.
Never-Ether
It's easy, no need to overthink it. As for the outside degrading I wouldn't worry about it. It'll easily last 15+ years. Cut the positive line about 4-6". The return line use a duckbill. Pretty simple, don't over think it.
Never-Ether
My Walmart batteries have been a pain. Won't crank engine fast enough in cold weather. 30s-40s. Once it's in the 70s+ they're fine. Walmart won't warranty them either. Don't recommend.
I recommend scrapping the filter housing and upgrading to this:
https://puredieselpower.com/ford/6.9l-7.3l-idi-diesel/83-94-6.9l-7.3l-ford-idi-diesel-pdp-fuel-filter-head.html
As for your dripping, dry it off and use JB weld as a temporary fix.
With my experience from OBS trucks, and older trucks in general, get the worst cheapest rust free truck you can that needs repairs. Reason being, why pay 5+ grand for a truck you'll eventually start replacing everything on, vs buying a truck that needs all the parts now. In the long run your be...
I haven't bought one, Amazon has them around $90, most all under $120. Just look at the reviews is what I can say. Other companies such as Rockauto or CP Addict are expensive ~$200, that's just too expensive for plastic and is overrated in my opinion.
Got the valve on. Took about an hour, used a metal coat hanger I bent and slid everything down it. Used a rubber gasket on the inside and a metal and rubber gasket on the outside. Worst case, I can weld the washer and valve on when the rubber rots away. Win win situation. Used a gasket sealer to...
Alright installing it today or tomorrow with the trick @Big Bart mentioned. Thanks for the advice btw. I guess I'll install a check valve in this return line, thinking about how the OEM return line has a duckbill and I can't fit one on there so going with a check valve to hopefully mitigate fuel...
It's about 60 degrees out and hard to start, replacing battery cables as well. New glow plug system and fuel system set at 7.5 psi, may bring it down to see if it's advancing it too much.
My truck just started doing this as well. Going to clear it with some ATF first. Also when running cold it'll almost stall if I rev the engine up and let it back down to idle. Probably need to check my timing.
Been researching the difference starters. Way I understand it, for a 7.3PSD there is a spacer that needs to be removed for it to fit the IDI. Then the 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7 starters fit the 7.3 PSD. So logic says it I remove some sort of spacer from these starters it should fit my IDI?
I'm sure...
Hey y'all,
Tried googling the information and can't get it to pull up, I thought I've read somewhere that a 7.3PSD starter can go in an IDI? Is that correct? I was thinking about stickin a 6.0 or 6.4 starter on my IDI if it's possible as I know they are put on the 7.3PSD diesels. They have 3...
While that's a good idea if the starter or batteries are dead, if he has no fuel it'll cause more problems and waste time until we know for certain what the issue is. Better off not doing that in this case, though it is good for other instances.
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