Ok , so I did some testing today. I swapped gauges, no change. If I short the fuel sender plug it makes the gauge go to empty. I ohm tested the sender while it was unplugged and nothing happened on the meter. Bad sender?
I hooked my vacuum pump up to a spare cap and couldn't pull a vacuum on it. Thought it might be leaking from the lid so I hot glued the crap out of the cap and reservoir to make a good seal and still couldn't pull a vacuum .... I will try gravity bleeding them.
Turns out I got it at rockauto so can't really exchange it. But if it was the master wouldn't the pedal bleed straight to the floor? Mine doesn't completely bleed out, it's just really soft.
I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical lol. How would I go about doing that?
EDIT: I screwed around with it for a minute and figured out how to do it. Lol
Ya just a cheap-o AutoZone master. I'll see if I can find the receipt so I can exchange it. It's definitely not leaking anywhere. I' also going to hook my vacuum pump up to the master cap and see if it pulls any more air out.
Years ago I spent days trying to bleed the brakes on my old ford . Turned out that I had switched the calipers and the bleeders were facing down , which allowed an air pocket to not bleed out. Ever since then I check the bleeders lol.
I was on the rear left wheel when the brake pedal started firming up. When I switched to the front right bleeder the pedal got soft again and never firmed back up.
When I first put it on the pedal started to get hard then went back to soft after I switched to another bleeder. Figured it was air , but maybe the master failed internally?
Just bleed everything again , including the rabs. Still soft. I didnt remove the hex plug on the rabs , couldn't get a wrench on it. Think that's my issue? Only other thing I can think of is the new master is bad. Guess I'll exchange it and swap it out.
Man I cannot get these brakes to firm up. Every bleed point has a solid stream of fluid , zero air. But it just won't firm up. New master cylinder.. Any ideas?
I always tighten until the rubber seal makes contact , then tighten an extra 3/4 turn. I rarely have leaks but when I do another 1/4 turn does the trick.
I'm not sure on the wheel size , but he said it has new brakes on 2 of the axles . It also has permanent plates . Thanks for the info guys . I'm definitely going to hold out for a factory built trailer.
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