IDI's manuals do don't use a coputer of any kind, that is the beauty of them. Just a clutch safety switch. Those go bad so even if you have wires hooked to it could still not work. Need to check and see if got power coming to it then when depressed got power coming out.
It is buried in snow right now or I would look, but or some reason my 89 w/C6 I just remember it being different then that. Because the mounting hole on the adaptor is crack and letting things move funny. will have to check it when snow is gone.
The lever stick is attached to the adaptor between the trans and transfer case by a single large bolt. I had that brake in my 89 f250 . Either the bolt came loose and fell out of broke or as in mine the adaptor broke.
I would say that is fair price for a running one. Just make sure it is a Factory turbo one. T stamped on the block on the flat area by IP gear cover, valve covers, 1/4 oil sender hole.
I hear they are a pain to bleed. Think a lot of guys buy the pre-bleed unit. Can't remember if a bleeder screw if there is with some one in the cab push down on the pedal while the bleeder is open and close bleeder before reaching the bottom. It can't be bleed like you do brakes , will never get...
I will have to say under normal circumstances chains on the front more then likely will not be a problem. I personally just make it a practice to put them on the rear or all 4. Even been times of putting a chain on trailer because of slick road conditions.
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It is not really wise to run them on the front, good way to tear up a differential. What does the door tag say for tire size and what kind of clearance do you have now?
It would be best to block the wheels ,put things in neutral and crawl under the truck and see if one of the joints is loose. If it is the front shaft ,just leave your hubs locked out and have the transfer case in 2 wheel and you wil not have any issues until you can get it fixed.
Not what I think of those no ream sets. Bushing must not press fit into the spindles. When use to do auto repair we had a honing machine to fit them , much nicer then reamer. Some big truck did took a lot of heat and big hammer to brake them loose from the axle.
It not really a crush one per say, but it would be like reusing a timing cover or water pump gasket .just not something you do unless you don't have any other choice.
I find the front one fairly easy to pull. Drop driveline. And can get right to it. Front tank, rear is different story.
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Are these intake or Exhaust ones? How bad is the crack , just see the crack or loose and peeling from the replacement one. If a intake does the seal remain in place when the engine has been turned over. With out really seeing it it is hard to really say. If you are unsure and trusted the machine...
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