Tailgate was mighty rough up top. Smacked the high spots in and used more bondo than I'd like but I'd rather not buy a Chinese replacement. It looks pretty good, wavy.. but not ugly.
Starting on the pinstripe here (lots of research to find the right one and color, ford part #E5TZ-1520000-FU...
Other bedside. Same story. The smallest amount of filler/bondo as necessary to smooth things out. I wasn't trying to eliminate the waves in the metal, just the ugly little dents here and there.
Bedside. Typical little dents. I didn't remove the moulding or trim, too scared it would break. I was able to pop it out enough to spray under it though so it looks like I did. Just lots of masking.
The pinstripe.. rough. Hard to get the curve right even with 3M striping tape. I'd never done that before. It turned out about an 8 out of 10. Had to mask and spray one color then flip the masking to spray the other color then clear the panel. I learned a lesson though.. on the other side I just...
Door jam on the passenger's side.. quicker, easier after having done the drivers already.
Spray guns: Iwata LPH80 is great for these smaller areas. It's a smaller detail type gun, less overspray.. for the big areas like Hood/Bedside I used LS400 for basecoat and WS400 for Clearcoat. Primer...
Doors were sagging a bit so I painted new hinges (replacing pins didnt solve it). Don't be an idiot like me and take off both hinges at the same time! Had to remove the fender in order to align them again I have some extra hinges if anybody wants them! Just pay for shipping from Nashville...
Massive amount of work masking the door jam area.. Keeping everything original added to the work, having to spray 2 different basecoat colors beneath the clearcoat. Spray the first color, let it dry enough to not rip it with masking tape (30min?) Then flip the masking to spray the other color.
Ideally, you'd spray a vehicle all at once and in a booth. I did mine over a year and outside.. just waited for calm evenings without many bugs and kept tweezers on hand when they decided to land in it.. lots of wet sanding and buffing (we'll get to that). Here's the door, skim coated a couple...
Sanded rust out as well as possible, then: Transtar self etch primer 6193 over bare metal, Transtar epoxy primer 7341, Omni basecoat, Transtar 8041 clearcoat with 6894 activator
(I used to be a sales rep for Transtar, excellent stuff)
Hey guys, I painted my truck and wanted to post a thread here with a bunch of pics (since no one else in the world cares). It's saying I can only post 5 pics, is there a way to add more (like 30?)? Thanks
I just used batterycablesusa.com
I sent them both of my old ground cables to replicate.. They spliced my old connector for the starter relay and added it to the new one as well as the ground to frame lead on the passenger side. They are beautiful and truck started right up. Perfect match! I...
I can't believe how rusty those senders are. Dang! I bought new senders from Trex and they have been good.. although my rear tank has stopped reading on the gauge after a year. I'm guessing a bad ground/connection
I use this to keep my truck batteries (and all my lawnmower/motorcycle) up to speed when they wont be used for awhile. Maybe it's trickle charge would bring your batteries to life...
Mr Goat,
Here's what I'm running for batteries, seems to fit like a glove:
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/p/duralast-gold-battery-27-dlg-group-size-27-810-cca/115785_0_0
Mighty expensive though.. I think I'll visit Sam's Club next time instead, half price! Pic...
Replaced the brake booster today. Napa had the best price ($110 after core), even over Rock Auto with shipping. Truck stops so nice and smooth now, it's a huge improvement and easy repair!
My little assistant wanted a ride but I had to replace both rear wheel cylinders and shoes today. Right rear had a leaky cylinder.. pretty wet inside. Bled everything. Test drive revealed a stiff pedal about half the time.. check valve works.. guess my next post will show a new brake booster!
Rear tank has original plastic fuel lines. To install an inline filter in it, would you splice into that original line or drop the (full) rear tank and run fuel rated hose up to the FSV?
I was thinking that too but couldn't find any clear ones I felt confident enough in for long term reliability. I figure I'll just replace these metal ones periodically as a maintenance item. I cleaned the rear tank out and know the front one is newer, new sending units in both. We'll see!
The electrical connector worked. Previous owner used rubber hoses on front tank, so just hose clamped them on the new FSV, I'll splice it and add the below in line filter. However the rear tank still has the original blue and grey (nylon/vinyl?) fuel lines. Not sure, guess I'll try to splice a...
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