You guys that did a Dana 60 swap: Alignment etc?

[ttman4]

Thought I'd do a new thread.
I been scouring the threads etc & wondering what I'm missing....how to align these things other than the toe in/out, caster, etc.

I got a '90 CC dually that was 2 wheel drive, has 4" body lift & 3" suspension lift. Last yr I pulled my steering out & stuck a Dana 60 under there with 2 leaf springs from a '94 D50 set-up. That was a mistake!!! Roughest ride imaginable!! Also I've had a hard pull to the rt, about what I call 1/4 steering wheel's worth. I've measured & measured & come up with about 1/4" longer on pass. side than dr side from rear axle forward to front axle.

Anyway, I am currently in the process of changing springs etc. Got a set of 5 leaf w/about 4" arch that came from under a 2000 Ford Excursion. I assume these are the same length spring as a SD spring??

I've read where others have added to the front of the frame horns to make something like this work. That's what I may have it do.

But one main question I have, anyway to align this thing other than getting the measurements on the dot & getting this D60 under there absolutely square with the rear axle?

Any thoughts, ideas, etc. Or what have others run into?

 

[Thewespaul]

Make sure the actual axle is straight

 

[ttman4]

Make sure the actual axle is straight

Yes I pretty sure it is straight

 

[towcat]

what are your current caster, camber and toe readings?
also what is the measurement from the front rim to to the rear rim on both sides?
pic for attention below. yes, it's my truck and I do know how to use the alignment rack.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ttman4]

what are your current caster, camber and toe readings?
also what is the measurement from the front rim to to the rear rim on both sides?
pic for attention below. yes, it's my truck and I do know how to use the alignment rack.

towcat I know you know how to use the rack, for that matter you been round lot longer than I have & I wish you'd drop in tomorrow & fix this thing for me.
My measurements are printed out but up town in my shop. They were all within correct specs per the alignment shop last yr.

I currently got wheels off all 4 corners. I been measuring from rear axle hooked on axle hub as well as butted up to rear axle same place on both sides. Measure forward to rear spring eye bolt & shackle, to spring center, to top grease zert on kingpin, and to front spring eye bolt. Per my measurements I'm currently 1/4" wider on pass side vs dr side on all my measure points.

Like I say, wider on the rt side, yet pulling hard to rt ditch.

Basically I guess I got my front pass side spring hanger welded to the front frame horn about 1/4" too far forward.
BTW, what are those metal stubs (1"long) that stick down below the frame on each side for? 1 about 3' forward of rear axle on each side & 1 about 12" behind front axle on each side. Reason I ask seems like I heard these may be for measuring from?? The 4 parts rigs I have ('88 thru '94) all have them also.

Anyway I'm currently cutting (plasma) everything loose & about decided to try to use these longer 5 leaf springs I have. & do some really fine tune measuring this time. Once I get things welded I don't see anyway of alignment movement other than the toe in/out, caster, etc.

(I wish someone had come along last yr & beat me to death with these 2 leaf D50 springs I used!!)

 

[BR3]

"squaring" the axle is called thrust angle.
On the front you can eliminate problems with thrust angle by using your toe and steer ahead so most alignment machines don't even measure a front thrust angle,usually just rear. For the most part the same is true for a bent housing although bending a Dana 60 seems unlikely in a factory setup. Even though everything maybe within spec you're looking for a certain percentage of split to cancel a pull one direction. I know in the ball joint trucks camber and Caster can be adjusted with the bushings so I imagine the Kingpin versions have a similar type setup that you would drop in the housing as opposed to the top mount adjustable bushings.

In reality however, on all of the Fords, no, I'll go as far as to say solid axle vehicles that I have aligned it has been my experience that things like low or bad tires, wheel bearings or dragging brakes are what are usually causing the pull, not 1/4" of thrust angle fault.

If a truck came into my shop with your complaint I would immediately rotate the tires left to right and see if that didn't fix the problem, especially if I saw a Nitto Trail Grapplers on there hahah. Good luck getting everything square!

 

[ttman4]

Thanks BR3,
In the last yr since I put this D60 under there I've rotated tires, changed tires, up & dn on pressure, new Kingpin bushings, etc, etc. Unless I'm wrong the D60 is tight & in good shape. Early on I saw I made a mistake by using those 2 leaf D50 springs, but just now getting round to trying to fix & correct things. Been a rough yr. & $$$

BTW, anyone know what those metal stubs sticking down from the frame I asked about are for?

So if I'm understanding things I should start by doing some more measuring & ck the rear axle to frame etc. Then work forward off the rear axle. Or at least get this front axle back under there as square as possible to everything.

Unless somebody got better idea about springs I think I'm going to use these 5 leaf springs I have. I've looked but can't find any # on them or code.

This truck never been wrecked or bent....hit couple deer & a cow elk only. That didn't do anything with my big "cowcatcher" bumper & grill guard I have.

Well off the shop to work on this thing singing my song "Dirty Word, Dirty Word, Dirty Word!"

 

[BR3]

On the students, some are actually nuts, not sure of a metric to determine production of Wich are/aren't, but I know a few are, and I believe they are on the engine crossmember if I remember correctly.

If everything is tight as you say, I'd look at castor/camber split numbers as stated above. Hopefully you didn't spend too much on kp bushings if you end up having to get new offset ones

Again on the thrust angle, literally in my experience an eyeball measurement is good on the front, as stated toe can "accommodate" for some error in placement

 

[ttman4]

I know back in the 70s and 80s some of the semi truck I drove the alignment shop worked on toe in, camber and castor to make some of the trucks pull to the left or right. There was no other way to adjust them with the straight axle they had.

 

[ttman4]

You must be registered for see images attach

This is the metal tapered stud I am talking about. 1 on each side approx 30” in front of rear axle & 1 each side about 12” behind front axle

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Going through some similar bs right now, doing s lot of string lines and measurements. I would need to verify but I believe those studs are jig / alignment dowels. I believe the front of my frame is 3/8 to 1/2 inch “over” First try looks like it moves pretty easily. No frame rack just squares, string, straightedge. Bucket loader for pull point and 2 ton come along. A big dose of common sense and a little experience straightening bent sh** the past 40 years

 

[towcat]

Going through some similar bs right now, doing s lot of string lines and measurements. I would need to verify but I believe those studs are jig / alignment dowels. I believe the front of my frame is 3/8 to 1/2 inch “over” First try looks like it moves pretty easily. No frame rack just squares, string, straightedge. Bucket loader for pull point and 2 ton come along. A big dose of common sense and a little experience straightening bent sh** the past 40 years

you're close enough to my shop. come on by and we'll rack it up and see what's happening

 

[laserjock]

You must be registered for see images attach

This is the metal tapered stud I am talking about. 1 on each side approx 30” in front of rear axle & 1 each side about 12” behind front axle

Those are alignment pins from the factory. Frame sat in jigs with those as locators. At least that’s what someone here said a few years back.

 

[ttman4]

Well I been working& working on this thing....other stuff that I find wrong while I got it down. Finally decided my oilcooler is leaking so that's a fix while stuff is out & got room! Always stuff to do so doing it while I think & think about how & what I'm going to do when I put this D60 & springs back under.

Russ/Typo4 is building me up a turbo also, YEAH!!!

Got the D60 loose & fixing to swap springs etc. These 5 leaf springs I'm going to use, yesterday I dumped some brake fluid on them & dissolved somebody's nasty green paint..... under the green paint I found some numbers : D60-SD2 Not sure for sure what these are really for, but I pulled them from under about a 2000 Ford Excursion frame at the wrecking yard. Looked like some added/swapped springs with maybe a RSK. Either way I got 'em & gonn'a try to use them.

Earlier I said I had rebuilt the KingPins.... what I did was use on each side: Steering King Pin Repair Kit Front Upper MOOG K6652

Numbers I found last yr stamped on axle is: 11 18 76A DH D610255-3. Near I been able to internet search is BOM# 610255-3 is about '86-'88 etc, etc. Wasn't able to decipher much on the 11 18 76A DH part of the #'s except maybe something to do with date of mfg???

Anyway, I'm all ears....ANYBODY got any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, etc on what I'm trying to do on this spring swap I'm all ears!!!!

 

[laserjock]

To run super duty springs you will probably have to do a reverse shackle mod. They are too long to use with the stock arrangement. It’s been documented on here. Sky manufacturing I believe makes a kit.

@Dieselcrawler