WTH? HEATERCORE!!! @#$@!!!!

[The Warden]

I might pull one in a pick, just to see what happens.

Just make sure the hose nipples are in good shape. My OEM core was actually in good condition, except the nipples were so bent out of shape that there was no hope for them...new hoses wouldn't seal worth beans, and it didn't look like they could be bent back to the point of being serviceable...

 

[CaptTom]

Hey Warden,

My nipples are hard and perky as ever. It was rather disappointing that the OEM's leak was up under the cores cap. Without tearing up the part, I can't get to the leak to braze, it's really buried up in there. It's the first thing I wanted to do, but there's a little skirt preventing my from reaching in where the water ports attach. I'm afraid of making it worse, more like wasting my time..... knowing I will make it worse.

 

[NO_SPRK]

have fun taking it out if your truck did not come with AC

 

[chris142]

Aluminum or Copper Heaters? Aluminum don't like Electrolosis in the cooling system from muddy coolant and once it starts its nearly impossible to stop it.

Copper: These are just getting thinner and thinner. Now they are so thin that it may rupture at any moment.

 

[thx997303]

Talking about your coolant readings.....my aftermarket gauge has read everything from 195* to 215* while the stock gauge stayed on the "N". Not reliable at all. I would suggest you get an aftermarket gauge. The stocker is as good as a dummy light.

 

[whiteboyslo]

The OEM unit is still available, and IIRC the cost difference isn't all that significant.

I'm not saying DON'T run a lower psi cap, but keep in mind the whole idea of running higher pressure is to raise the boiling point. Here is a chart that gives a rough idea of what happens to the boiling point as you change both system pressure and coolant mixture. Keep in mind, these temps are at sea level. If you're at some appreciable elevation, it'll be lower.

http://www.heat-transfer-fluid.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

Mike

 

[OLDBULL8]

Geez, I'm well prepared if ever mine blows out, got 4-5 OEM heater cores. Wanna buy one, $20+S.

 

[towcat]

The OEM unit is still available, and IIRC the cost difference isn't all that significant.

I'm not saying DON'T run a lower psi cap, but keep in mind the whole idea of running higher pressure is to raise the boiling point. Here is a chart that gives a rough idea of what happens to the boiling point as you change both system pressure and coolant mixture. Keep in mind, these temps are at sea level. If you're at some appreciable elevation, it'll be lower.

http://www.heat-transfer-fluid.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

Mike

mike-
I'm aware the use of a low psi cap is controversial, raising the boiling point in one thing, but most big rigs are running low psi due to the size of their cooling systems. before running a low psi cap, the top seam of the radiator would be a maintenance item due to the flexing from the pressure surges. running a 60% mix with a 7psi cap still puts me at a boiling point at 250*. I'll take the trade off between boiling point and radiator failure from pressure spikes.
once again.....your results may vary.

 

[whiteboyslo]

mike-
I'm aware the use of a low psi cap is controversial, raising the boiling point in one thing, but most big rigs are running low psi due to the size of their cooling systems. before running a low psi cap, the top seam of the radiator would be a maintenance item due to the flexing from the pressure surges. running a 60% mix with a 7psi cap still puts me at a boiling point at 250*. I'll take the trade off between boiling point and radiator failure from pressure spikes.
once again.....your results may vary.

Well, like I said, I'm not advocating AGAINST it. Heck, I might even give it a try. I just wanted folks to realize the pros and cons of this decision is all. In my rig, prior to having changed out the thermostat and fan clutch, temps into the 230s while towing even the super light loads I run weren't uncommon if heading up a grade. With a lower psi cap, it'd be a little too close for comfort, especially since the temp on the gauge may not be the hottest point in the system. Now, though, it's no big deal. So, I guess my general advice would be that a low psi cap is a good idea AFTER you know your cooling system is up to *****.

Mike

 

[towcat]

Well, like I said, I'm not advocating AGAINST it. Heck, I might even give it a try. I just wanted folks to realize the pros and cons of this decision is all. In my rig, prior to having changed out the thermostat and fan clutch, temps into the 230s while towing even the super light loads I run weren't uncommon if heading up a grade. With a lower psi cap, it'd be a little too close for comfort, especially since the temp on the gauge may not be the hottest point in the system. Now, though, it's no big deal. So, I guess my general advice would be that a low psi cap is a good idea AFTER you know your cooling system is up to *****.

Mike

mike-
i had no overheat issues coming over I-8 last summer in 115* heat. at least that was the reading in El Centro. in fact the pyro was hitting at 800* climbing the grade. everything else was nominal in the truck as I was rolling at GVW of 10k.

 

[CaptTom]

Hey OB8,

PM me an address to send the check and shipping cost will be to zip cod 92106.

I'll gladly take one of those off your hands.

 

[riotwarrior]

Geez, I'm well prepared if ever mine blows out, got 4-5 OEM heater cores. Wanna buy one, $20+S.

I Thought I was bad for hording parts and Superwifey says I am...wow...

 

[riphip]

Stant ST-7 is cap with pressure release lever. Been using these since my 1st head gasket job. No problems with heater cores either.

Rick

 

[texcl]

This is off the subject but if you something blow like a lower coolant hose, will your temp gauge show it's over heating? I would think not since there is no coolant to transfer heat to the sensor.

 

[towcat]

This is off the subject but if you something blow like a lower coolant hose, will your temp gauge show it's over heating? I would think not since there is no coolant to transfer heat to the sensor.

losing the lower hose or freezeplugs on a motor is the kiss of death. the water temp sensor has nothing to gauge until superheated steam hits it. oil temp gauge is a good backup and excellent indicator if you are working the motor too hard or just enough. you'll learn your motor's habits over time where in normal circumstances the oil and water temps move up and down closely with each other, but if there is a crisis, you'll see oil temps spike and the water stay flat....here's your problem indicator.