wmo and direct injection

metrobruce

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been lurking on this forum for a while, I was running a little Rover metro with a 1.5 tud5 engine in it, it was a little idi diesel and performed faultless for months on wmo, I had all sorts of teething issues, it turned out to be loads of little inline filters in adition to the main filter causing restrictions. I now have a van with a ford 2.5di engine equipped with a Bosch fuel pump in it, these engines are known for being tough over here in the UK. do people with Di engines in the US experience any aditional issues running wmo, whats the pro's/con's
 

79jasper

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Most common you'll find will be the 5.9 cummins for di running wmo.
Some seem to like it.

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subway

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don't know for sure but would be very interested to know since I am swapping my engine over to a direct injected one.
 

metrobruce

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Iam doing a twin tank conversion this time, I have learnt from the mistakes I have made, I am also fitting the filtration system to the van so that I will be filtering a batch of fuel whilst running, it will have another power steering pump running oil through a land rover td5 centrifuge oil filter. the rotors are disposable but are really cheap. having seen what you guys get out of your oil with the large rotors leads me to believe that it should do a similar job. I have a feeling that it will be loads better than my little metro
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Being able to process fuel on the move will be great... just keep in mind that a power steering pump can put out in excess of 1500psi so a regulator with bypass will be a must.

With a twin tank system and a bit of heating, you should be fine. No WMO on a cold engine... period.

Keep us posted and good luck!
 

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A power steering pump works well to feed a centrifuge. That's what I have been using. A simple 1/4 turn valve set to bleed off the pressure has worked well for me. It holds the pressure well about the 90 psi range that it needs to operate. Heating the oil really helps the contaminants drop out to.

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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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A power steering pump works well to feed a centrifuge. That's what I have been using. A simple 1/4 turn valve set to bleed off the pressure has worked well for me. It holds the pressure well about the 90 psi range that it needs to operate. Heating the oil really helps the contaminants drop out to.

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Same here... just wanted to make sure he knew that he would need a way to keep pressure in check.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Mine came from a ford focus. Anything that uses a remote reservoir will work. I had to change the pulley on it. If you find one that is vbelt (90s neon), it would be even easier.
 

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Mine was from an old honda with a v belt. It matched the rotation of my motor.

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