Why the diode?

[BrianX128]

Yeah, I'm just realizing how many of my wiring decisions over the years would have been easier with diodes. I've used so many relays ran from remote toggle switches to imitate what a diode would do.

Like fog lights that can come on manually by a toggle switch in the cab to run with running lights but not activate headlights, but also triggered by a low beam wire only with headlight switch automatically. I'd traditionally use two 4 prong relays, one from a remote switch in the cab and one spliced into the "trip wire" of the low beams that way my manual switch in the cab doesn't feed the low beams as well (so I could have fog lights with no headlights if I choose to around dusk with all my Amber running lights on, etc, but still have a relay control the fogs to be on with low beams and off with high beams like normal). I've basically been creating a logical diode effect by using multiple relays for things in wiring knowing that the "hot" leads coming out of a relay to power the accessories on the other end don't allow the electricity to flow back through the other way into the "signal activator" for said relay.

Basically I have a lot of relays. It works, same fundamental idea in the end with stuff, just a lot of relays. Haha.

Furthermore, I now have some clarity for the original project at hand but have now thought of 12 other things I'd like to do as well. Time to order a crap ton of diodes relays wires and toggle switches. My light obsession on vehicles never ends.

 

[crash-harris]

Yup, I'll definitely be using diodes when I do electric fans on the Enterprise and redo Bruiser's e-fans. I like to use cheap Hayden temperature controllers with seperate relays and switches for manual control and the backfeed from the manual control destroys the controller.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Cheap source for nice diodes - start raiding underhood fuse boxes of newer vehicles in U-Pull-It yards. Two types are commonly available, one is about the size of your regular ATO/ATC fuse, and the other is about the size of a MAXI fuse, both are solid black in color and have the diode symbol stamped on the top. Additionally, you'll know them by looking at their contact blades (requires removal from the fuse box obviously) - on the typical ATO/ATC and MAXI fuse the blades are both inline and lay flat, the diodes have one blade turned 90 degress so it's physically impossible to swap places between a diode and a fuse after forgetting/mistaking which is which. The ATO/ATC-sized diodes can take your standard 1/4" spade connectors, for the MAXI-sized ones you'll need the wider .375" connectors IIRC.

 

[laserjock]

You can get packs of them from amazon for next to nothing. No need to salvage them unless you just want to. Radio Shack or any "real" electronics supplier will have them by the scores. Few cents each usually.

 

[BrianX128]

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Pried this little guy out of my old head unit for the cavalier. 3408k it says on it. I'd assume if the direction is right it should work for the same purpose? Looks bigger than the one in the write up.. Guess I can test it on a light bulb first.

 

[BrianX128]

Actually I think we're good here. I have everything in the truck and it's working. Doesn't sound like its advancing the timing either. I didn't test it cause you know, reasons, and just put it in. But it definitely will hold the idle and quit if I flip the switch, and that extra raspy rattling sound of a normal cold high idle is absent. Sweet. Also..

Also soldering tiny stuff after 3 cups of coffee when hand tremors runs in your family and you already shake just enough when doing precise things with your hands like you just worked out for 3 hours is a blast. I think I soldered the wood workbench sufficiently as well.