A third hand for the brakes

[1mouse3]

I hurt my leg a long time ago and is hard for me to heal toe anymore, so finding a way around the dilemma. So old girl is getting a pair of line loks for both axles, and a used prop valve since the rabs was deleted. I have not had issues with brakes locking up under normal use, but may be from the fact I keep the rear brakes a little loose. I will be seeing if can get the rear brakes to work right and I cant guaranty my left foot, wont stab the barkes like its a heavy clutch in a panic. So having the prop valve will ensure there is no funny business and the line loks are for down shifts, so dont have to have to drop the hammer when egt are high and getting in to it. The line lok will also assist in taking off on a steep grade and minimizing the chance of stalliing. These line loks are 1/8in npt, what would be good tread tape or sealant that wont degrade with brake fluid?

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The momentary switch for the line loks will be on the shifter and this laddy will give me a hand.

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[Noiseydiesel]

Brake line should be a flare fitting.
if it doesn't seal, either it's still loose, deformed or plain worn out.
if the system does not hold, you might be loosing pressure at the wheel cylinders. You pull back the boots to make sure they are dry before adding line locs?

 

[franklin2]

So you hurt your right leg, and it's only good for the throttle now? No more braking with it? So you have to use your left leg for braking and for the clutch? That certainly is automatic transmission territory.

So you will push in on the clutch and pop it out of gear at the last minute, then brake, and then use the line locks so you can get it back in gear to take off?

 

[1mouse3]

So you hurt your right leg, and it's only good for the throttle now? No more braking with it? So you have to use your left leg for braking and for the clutch? That certainly is automatic transmission territory.

So you will push in on the clutch and pop it out of gear at the last minute, then brake, and then use the line locks so you can get it back in gear to take off?

I got pins and a rod in right leg, using the brakes is fine but issue is using two pedals with it. I was told not to drive it like I do my gas one, where droping the throttle could spike the egts and need to back it off slowly if its high. It will also help with take off on a steep hill, where would want a little throttle to keep from stalling it.

Brake line should be a flare fitting.
if it doesn't seal, either it's still loose, deformed or plain worn out.
if the system does not hold, you might be loosing pressure at the wheel cylinders. You pull back the boots to make sure they are dry before adding line locs?

The line locks I got dont ues flared fittings, but are tapperd pipe thread.

 

[u2slow]

For the pipe thread, I use hydrocarbon-rated teflon tape, and/or a dope called Leak-Lock. I normally use both.

This heel-toe thing.... not something I've mastered or desired to learn in my 20 years driving diesels. Set the park brake lightly and pull through it, then release. Your proposed workaround perplexes me.

 

[franklin2]

I was told not to drive it like I do my gas one, where droping the throttle could spike the egts and need to back it off slowly if its high. It will also help with take off on a steep hill, where would want a little throttle to keep from stalling it.

I think you have been told wrong, but be that as it may, you might be better served with a hand throttle to keep the rpms up? A simple lawnmower belden cable might suffice for that.

You will need these fittings to plumb your line locks in place. Any thread sealer should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Brass-Inverted-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B07MYY7JSG

 

[Jesus Freak]

Another option, especially on taking off on an incline is to just not stop. Get an incredibly loud horn and some flashing red or blue lights and just go. I see guys do it all the time and, I guess out of concern for our lives, me and everyone else just stops and let's them go by. It works for them, I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

[1mouse3]

For the pipe thread, I use hydrocarbon-rated teflon tape, and/or a dope called Leak-Lock. I normally use both.

This heel-toe thing.... not something I've mastered or desired to learn in my 20 years driving diesels. Set the park brake lightly and pull through it, then release. Your proposed workaround perplexes me.

I think you have been told wrong, but be that as it may, you might be better served with a hand throttle to keep the rpms up? A simple lawnmower belden cable might suffice for that.

You will need these fittings to plumb your line locks in place. Any thread sealer should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Brass-Inverted-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B07MYY7JSG

Im not sure on the validity of there being a issue, but doing so would better my driving. Heal/toe and knowing the engaement point of clutch, along with the art of wiping a wheel is how I was taught to drive a manual. Say this video as example, I would use the line lock coming up to this maneuver to keep from loading the engine off idle. I could pull this off better if had it on this truck, since would be at a better rpm and a spool was added after this vid. I would not try to treat snow white like this on the black top, but gravel, dirt and snow would be a diffrent story. And thank on the tips for the tap.

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Another option, especially on taking off on an incline is to just not stop. Get an incredibly loud horn and some flashing red or blue lights and just go. I see guys do it all the time and, I guess out of concern for our lives, me and everyone else just stops and let's them go by. It works for them, I'm sure you'll be fine.

I think just having the horns off the general lee, would be enough to solidify the I dont give a ....

Wolo® 440 - 6 Trumpet Red Godfather Musical Air Horn

Universal 6 Trumpet Red Godfather Musical Air Horn - Part Number 440 by Wolo. Available in Exterior Department at www.carid.com

www.carid.com

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'd rock some Dixie air horns.

 

[1mouse3]

For the pipe thread, I use hydrocarbon-rated teflon tape, and/or a dope called Leak-Lock. I normally use both.

This heel-toe thing.... not something I've mastered or desired to learn in my 20 years driving diesels. Set the park brake lightly and pull through it, then release. Your proposed workaround perplexes me.

That leak lock has favorably specs, so should be skookum.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Supco-HS10002-Highside-Leak-Lock-Pipe-Joint-Sealant-Tube-1-oz