why does my truck burn oil?

93fordturbo

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When my truck ran before I blew the head gasket, it always burned oil or "used"oil. Anywhere from a quarter gallon per thousand miles to a half gallon power thousand miles. Maybe less, but it was quite a bit. Valve covers weren't leaking much at all. The oil pan was always called with oil and grime, and I still have that crappy cdr and tube that so many have said will leak oil and actually suck oil and burn more off than it should. Reason I'm so concerned is because I got my taxes back and because I'm in school,I got quite a bit more back than planned :). So now I'm going to get a pump and injectors while I change the head gasket. heads are getting checked for warping, but I'm wondering if I should get valves checked or whatever needs to get checked, and how is that done? Or should I just leave it? Could the heads have caused oil consumption? Sorry for the rant... What do you think?
 

Hydro-idi

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You should have the valve stem seals replaced while the heads are off. You should also get them rebuilt as well....if they need to be. The factory valve stem seals are one of the main reasons for the 6.9's to consume oil. And once everything is put back together, I would run a couple treatments of auto-rx thru the engine. Auto-rx drastically decreased my oil consumption during the first treatment. That will ensure that all the ring packs are clean too ;Sweet.
 

93fordturbo

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Any idea on cost of valve seals getting replaced? Can I do it myself or is it better to have it done?
 

franklin2

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If you get a valve spring compressor at take a few of them apart, you can wiggle the valve around while it's in the head and see how much play it has. If it has a lot, the guides are worn. I don't know what kind of valve seals these engines have, but if they are hard and stiff, they need replaced. I know the intake valve seals give a lot of trouble on gas engines because of the intake manifold vacuum present, but I don't know if diesels have as much problem with this, since they have no vacuum on the intake.
 

79jasper

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I'm with Franklin. Do it yourself. Worst case you may have to buy a dial to measure play. Valve seal/guide installers don't cost much either.
 

Hydro-idi

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93fordturbo, if your idi heads have never been off, it will more than likely need new valve stem seals anyways. It is not hard putting them on yourself. But yes, it would be a good idea to make sure your CDR is in good working order
 

8ball

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I have a '84 6.9 that I think has bad valve stem seals. What is this CDR that you're all talking about, and how do I check it to see if it's bad? Thanks for helping a newbie.
 

Knuckledragger

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The CDR (crankcase depression relief, I think) valve is the tuna can-looking device attached to the intake manifold on N/A engines. It is in various places on turbo engines, depending on who did the installation. It is a one-way valve to regulate the pressure buildup inside the crankcase while the engine is running. If you take it off and clean it out, you should not be able to blow air through it in both directions.
 

8ball

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Ok, so basically the gas motor equivalent is a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. Thanks!
 

Mulochico

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Ok, so basically the gas motor equivalent is a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. Thanks!

Good way to describe it. If you need to replace it here is the part # when I replaced mine:

Valve: E3TZ 6A665 A
Lower grommet: E8TZ 6A892 A
Manifold grommet: E3TZ 6A892 A

Lower grommet is where it connects to the engine, The manifold grommet is self explanatory. Got them at the dealer
 
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