Wheel bearings install

84TD

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Remove the single small bolt from the bottom side of the caliper. Drive the pin out with a mallet and punch. Don't let the calipers hang from the hoses. Take the allen screws out of the 4X4 hub, and remove the hub. Take the lock nut off the end of the spindle. There will be another nut behind that one (I hope, my memory is fuzzy). Somewhere in there, there may also be a washer with a pin sticking out of it. All these things come out in an obvious fashion. Just pay attention so you can put it all back together correctly. The outer bearing will come off if you push on the disc one way or another. Once the outer bearing is off, then just slide the hub assembly off. Put the hub on a bench, and use a drift to knock the inner bearing out, pushing the rear seal off with it. Now examine the races. They are pressed in, and have to be knocked out. Use a drift to catch the small lip on the inside of each race and knock it out. Move your punch around in a circle to knock it out streight so as not to **** it. Clean everything really well. Hammer the new races in evenly, and carefully. Make sure they seat fully. Pack your larger inner bearing with clean grease really well, and lay it on the race. Now put the new inner seal on, being carefully to tap lightly all the way around to seat it. Be sure not to distort it. Clean up the spindle real well, and lube it lightly with grease. Slide the hub on, being carefull not to nick the seal. Place your well packed small outer bearing on, and reassemble. You'll need to torque the first nut to spec, which I can't recall what that is right now. Hopefully somebody can post it for you.

That is half a tech bulletin right there. Sticky!!!!
 

FordGuy100

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got the parts for the turbo today. soon as it is together I will let you know.
Buy all the wheel nut sockets, someday you will need them.

Alright!!! cant wait until my truck is turbocharged. Thats what I ended up doing, I went back to napa and bought a set of 5 of them, and I got one that worked. Now how the heck does the hub come of the rotor/spindle part.
 

Agnem

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Most all the stuff you see in those exploded views, is what is in the hub that comes off when you take the allen screws out.

Are you saying that you have the outer bearing off, and you cannot get your hub to slide off? This is possible, but it is due to the inner bearing being stuck on the spindle. If you pull hard enough, the rear seal will pop off, and you will get the hub minus the inner bearing and seal, which will still be stuck on the spindle.
 

FordGuy100

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Sorry for confusing you guys, I was thinking I would have to take the hub part off of the rotor part, if you catch my drift. I figured out I didnt have to. The hub/rotor is off, and awaiting new bearings, except I forgot to get somes seals. So I oredered them, and I'm now waiting.

On another note, how much does it cost to get your rotors turned?
 

creighta

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I haven't priced them for my 350 yet, but I would think you could buy NEW rotors and pads for under $50.

much smaller, but my buick was only $65 for rotors and pads all the way around.
 

FordGuy100

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I just finished it today. What started out as doing wheel bearings turned into wheel bearings, shocks, brakes. But its all done now, and all I have to do it take it for a test drive. Heres a couple of pics.

Heres what I started with.

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This is what I ended up with.

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FordGuy100

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Dang that second pic turned out dark. Pretty much I just painted the hub housing and caliper with black caliper paint.
 

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