What engine is it??? admitting defeat

[slim072590]

Alright, i admit defeat.. I have read forum after forum and digram after digram of the differences of engines and everything but i can not figure it out

I have a 1987 F350 crewcab long bed 4x4, with a ???? engine and a 5 speed trans, (ZF5 i think)

I was told the motor is a 7.3L under 100k miles and not the 6.9 that came in it from factory... i have looked all over the block and heads for anything telling me what year the motor is.. but the only thing i can find is a 1987 sticker on the valve cover

i have a serpentine belt (i don't think these came out till 92?) on the front, not 3 belts.... it is a non-turbo engine, and idk what else i can look at to tell me what year it is


i read that there is a code or number on the block by the intake manifold that have what size and range of years it is, but i can NOT find it.. and there is nothing anywhere else on the block i can see...

anyone know how i can tell?? Any help at all would be great..


Thanks,
Nick

 

[The Warden]

Take a 1/2" and a 7/16" socket and look for a cylinder head bolt. If the 7/16" socket fits the bolt head, it's a 6.9l; if the 1/2" socket fits the bolt head, it's a 7.3l. That's really the easiest way to tell if you can't find the code...BTW, that code should be stamped on the block, oin the driver's side, near the injector pump drive gear tower, and it's probably thoroughly covered in dirt and grime.

There's a row of four head bolts near the outboard side of the head, right by where the exhaust manifold bolts on. There's a fifth bolt just forward of the bottom outboard corner of the valve cover; this one on the driver's side may be the easiest to get to.

Hope that helps some...good luck

{on edit} I got the sizes wrong and updated the post...it's been a while since I've done this

 

[gandalf]

The engine has a serial number which will tell us what year it is. It's on a flat surface, horizontal, parallel to the ground, just to the driver's side of the injection pump gear tower. That number will have either 6.9 or 7.3 at the beginning I believe. I'll post a picture to help with location as soon as I find it. However, you've described a 7.3 engine, probably a '93 or maybe early '94.

Post the number here and some body will give more detail.

 

[gandalf]

Ahhh, the Warden beat me. He types faster I guess.

I found a picture for you. Orient yourself in the picture, look at the IP and the injection lines. Then grab a rag and start looking. The number may be partially covered with sealand, but I'm sure you can scrape that. In my picture the number is toward the lower right corner.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[The Warden]

Ken, thnk about it this way...I was typing so fast that I got the socket sizes wrong at first

I thought i had taken a picture of my block ID number, but I couldn't find it anywhere, so you actually did better than I could have

 

[towcat]

tim-
you forgot one critical piece of information.
the head bolts are a 12pt bolt and you will need a 12pt socket in either 7/16 or 1/2" to id the size of the motor. there will also be some wiseass dropping comments of "well I bored a 6.9 out to a 7.3".....you may have done so, but the block casting material is still of the thickness for the 6.9 head bolts. that cannot change even though the cylinder is bored out.

 

[The Warden]

Oops, I thought that I had said that it was a 12 point socket; my mistake...wow, I really did write my first post too quickly!!

 

[icanfixall]

Also noted ... Every block has a casting number different from the stamped serial number telling us what the block is. But really guys. Easy way to know what blockit is will be to clean off the top drivers side corner like Ken has pictured. At the begining of this stamped number will be the 6.9 or 7.3 size on the engine. If it tells you 7.3 K then thats a turbo block but may not be turbo equpited too. Just because the numbers tell you its a turbo block and the oil galley ports are 1/4 inch pipe and not the 1/8 inch pip size on the 7.3 and 6.9 na engines. You actually have to open up the engine to see if you in fact have the large pin rids. There are a couple of other things that make up the turbo engines but we don't really have a choice when buying those parts these days. They are all turbo parts now. Even for the na 7.3 engines. Anyone know what those parts are???
There will be a test at the end of the class.

 

[slim072590]

thank you.. much better idea of where this number is.. i will look again sometime soon and let you guys know.. and i will check the head bolts for fun anyway

and im going to need a cheat sheet for this test, haha

 

[icanfixall]

No problem with the cheat sheet. Just ask the question and this forum can give you several correct answers...

 

[slim072590]

While ya'll are helping me all nice... I'm gonna change the fuel filter and injectors next week.. besides oiling the O rings so I don't break them and keeping it clean... is there anything else I should know?

I will prefill the fuel filter before installing it(AutoZone filter should be fine right?)
And will I have to blead air out of the system after I'm done with both.. and if so, how?

Thanks again and again.. haha

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[chris142]

If the Zone filter is made in usa, Canada, mexico or even Taiwan it's prolly fine. I would not trust one from China or other 3rd world country's but that's just me.

 

[gandalf]

While ya'll are helping me all nice... I'm gonna change the fuel filter and injectors next week.. besides oiling the O rings so I don't break them and keeping it clean... is there anything else I should know?

I will prefill the fuel filter before installing it(AutoZone filter should be fine right?)
And will I have to blead air out of the system after I'm done with both.. and if so, how?

Thanks again and again.. haha

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

Changing the fuel filter is pretty easy. Yes, prefill it before you put the new one on, even though you know you'll probably spill some maneuvering it into place. Also yes, bleed the filter once you have in screwed on. There is a schrader valve on the filter head (it looks like a tire air fill valve). Push the center pin in while you crank the engine until you get a solid stream of fuel coming out. Even then, you'll probably get some air into the system. IF there isn't too much air, just crank until it's worked out. WARNING: crank the engine for only 15-20 seconds, then let it rest for 4-5 minutes to allow the starter to cool. Way too many people have burned out their starter cranking their engine.

Let us know if you have too much problem on this procedure.

 

[icanfixall]

The pre filling the filter with fuel is a wonderful idea but do not fill it thru the big center hole. That will not filter any of the fuel you add to the filter and can ruin the injection pump from dirt entering it. Fiil by the outside ring of small holes in the top of the filter. Then it will filter the fuel like its designed to. also the Fram filters are a very poor choice of filters. Napa, Wix, Motorcraft are much better. Might try looking on ebay for fuel filters too. Usually some great deals are found there. Plenty of information on how to do the work you want to do here. When installing o rings on the injectors install the top one first in the top groove. then roll the bottom one over the top one. The torque for the injectors in the head is 35 lbs. Make sure the copper gasket comes out with the injector. Hope your replacing the injecters with new Bb codes and replacing the return line kit too.

 

[slim072590]

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk