weak pump or clogged filter?

broncobilly_69

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so I just got my set up for pumping WMO, bought a 12v Tuthill diesel transfer pump and put a Goldenrod water block filter on it. With the filter on I am maybe pumping 1 gallon a minute tops. I didn't watch to see how fast the oil came out when it first started pumping but a minute in it was coming out very slow. I'm wondering if I clogged my filter in the first minute (is this possible) or do I just need a more powerful pump for pushing WMO through the filter? I made sure not to take from the bottom of the barrel when pumping and if I take the filter off it pumps great. Pump is rated for 10 gpm and filter 5 gpm. I expected it to be a little slow but this is rediculous. Any suggestions? What are you guys using for pumps?
 

spg

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I use gravity to filter with. It gives the oil a chance to slowly run through the filters so they can do their job.
 

spg

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WMO is a lot thicker than Diesel. You may want to premix your oil with diesel before you filter. It should flow better through the filter blended.
 

cranknrods

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in my experience waterblock filters (that use the chemical treated paper that wont let water pass) wont work for wmo. the wmo still caries some of its chemical additives that keep water suspended in the crankcase.
(if not for these detergents you run the risk of sucking pure water into your oil pump after your engine cools off during a humid night)
the suspended water forms a layer around the filter element and thus blocks off all or almost all flow through the system.
if you want to get the water out you need to boil it out-then while the oil is still warm (not boiling hot). you need to filter it.

people who have horror stories of running wmo did not

1.boil the water out
2. filter effectivly
3. clean the combustion chamber (water injection)
4. get the oil thin enough for the particular system being ran on it. example 2007 cummins 5.9-runs 66% d2 or kero and 33% wmo any more and the fuel system cant keep up
97 12valve cummins-run straight wmo-hardier pumps

diesel is thicker then kero and kero is cheaper.
so i premix my wmo with kero for easier filtering.

kero doesnt have as good of lube properties as d#2 but in my opinion the wmo makes up for it.
when im done filtering a barrel of fuel (55 gallons) i then put in a pint of 2-stroke oil just to be safe. if i had access to a camera i could show you pics of the fuel after this process.
the kero makes it alot easier for the centrifuge to do its job. thats why when i get done with a batch of fuel it looks like brown diesel and not black wmo.
i had a hard time getting these results with D#2.


if you want the exact steps that i take, just say so and i'll type it all out so everyone can see
 
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topgunn

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new to wmo.Are there any good articles on this? Is it better to mix with kerosene or diesel. I want to put the wmo in my 100 gal. bed tank and run into regular fuel tanks than add diesel. Does it have to be mixed befor or can my idea work. I finally have source of wmo, now have about 350 gals. I use my truck to pull my fifth-wheel and plan to tour back east and south. Any help is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time!
 

hheynow

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so I just got my set up for pumping WMO, bought a 12v Tuthill diesel transfer pump and put a Goldenrod water block filter on it. With the filter on I am maybe pumping 1 gallon a minute tops. I didn't watch to see how fast the oil came out when it first started pumping but a minute in it was coming out very slow. I'm wondering if I clogged my filter in the first minute (is this possible) or do I just need a more powerful pump for pushing WMO through the filter? I made sure not to take from the bottom of the barrel when pumping and if I take the filter off it pumps great. Pump is rated for 10 gpm and filter 5 gpm. I expected it to be a little slow but this is rediculous. Any suggestions? What are you guys using for pumps?

1) That Tuthill pump is not designed to pump fluids thicker than diesel. 2) Heating the WMO to 120-130*F thins it enough to run that pump sparingly. 3) Don't expect a filter to remove any water. You need to remove it prior to filling the tank by heating, setting then draining the bottom portion.

If money was no object... THIS is the 12v oil pump of choice.
 

Phelpsie-93

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if you want the exact steps that i take, just say so and i'll type it all out so everyone can see

i would be very interested in how your setup works. im getting ready to put together my centrifuge based on the simple centrifuge design. anything you can offer as far as your experience would be:thumbsup:

thanks
 

cranknrods

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the steps i take are as follows

1. i use a 55g drum with a drain valve welded to the bottom.(the boiling barrel)
i fill the drum with 25g of wmo and boil it until it stops crackling (the crackling is the water boiling out)

2.i then remove the heat and mix in 25g of kero (makes it thinner for easier filtering)

3. after adding the kero the mix is still gonna be plenty hot enough to keep things thin.

i then open the drain valve on the bottom of the drum and send the fuel through the centrifuge. the return fuel is sprayed into a sock filter at the top of the drum. the sock filter is free hanging so that any fuel that doesnt flow through it flows over the sides of the filter and back into the drum. (i also use this filter to pre filter my wmo when pumping it into the barrel in the first place but i try to go slow enough to have minimal over flow-i do the same for the kero)

for the first 2 hours of filtering i use a 5 mic sock and when i think the oil is starting to change colors just a little i then use a 1 mic sock.
the sock is more of a helper to the centrifuge and nothing more.

after a couple hours of filtering i close the drainvalve, turn off the centrifuge and reapply heat until the 50 gallons of fuel heats to about 180-190 degrees. (i use a laser thermometer)
at this time i also give my centrifuge a nice cleaning and once over.

i then switch the 1 mic sock for a 1/2 mic sock.
then i open the drain valve and start the centrifuge.

the centrifuge will almost always push fuel faster then the socks can drain it but like i said before, the sock filter is for assisting only. any extra fuel just drains over the top and into the barrel.

i also have a setup that has the overflow fuel flowing into another sock that is placed under the other sock but im having a hard time catching the over flow and not the filtered oil. basically the filtered oil draing from the top sock is filling up the bottom sock and not helping very much with filtering the overflow from the first sock...hope that makes sense.

i think the best setup is to use just one sock. but if i get my multiple sock filters set up real good then they will be able to do a better job.
the best socks to use are the xtra large 36" filters. these hold alot more fuel and have enough surface area to almost keep up with the fuel flow rate.

however you heat the oil is up to you- i use fire but that isnt normally safe but i have the fire underneath a sheat of half inch steal to keep the flames from touching the barrel. i also have it set up so that if the barrel starts leaking the oil flows away from the fire. i would highly recomend that you use a safer form of heat, then what i use, to boil the water out of the fuel. however, an electric element takes alot of juice inorder to get 25g of oil to boil.

if you start off with 10 gallons of oil, the process is alot safer and faster and then add 10 gallons of kero it also filters alot quicker but i find it alot less labor intensive to do the big batch and just let it filter all day while im working in the yard.its preference really

hope this helps
 

firemediceric

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I'm wondering if I clogged my filter in the first minute (is this possible) or do I just need a more powerful pump for pushing WMO through the filter?

I have two filtering set ups. One is used for my WVO fuel and is made up of two can type filters plumbed in line of each other. The other for the waste ATF I run is made of two whole house water filters followed by a Goldenrod water block. In front of each filter element I have "Tee'd" in a pressure gauge. This allows me to monitor filter restriction.

You may want to put in a couple of pressure gauges. You can get them for < $10 at Home Depot. Install new filters and make note of the pressure. From that point you can monitor how output flow changes as filter restriction increases and impedes flow.
 

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