warping brake rotors

[dsblack]

This has been a long on going issue that I have had no luck fixing.
I had a pad come apart on the right rotor on the truck about 2 years ago. Ruined the rotor.
So I changed out the rotors, and new pads. Then I got a slight vibration and found the rotors were out of round.
Had them turned, And this repeated 3-4 times. once I added changing the calipers, once the brake hoses, and once the MC.
So I decided that the problem was the cheap rotors that I got. Took it in and had new USA high quality rotors put on it.

Guess what.... it's back.
I also added a new brake controller for the TT.
Also when this happens the truck pulls slightly right when driving, and hard left when breaking.
Turn the rotors and everything is fine. Drives streight, stops streight, and vibration goes away.
Also the truck doesn't stop very well unless you really get on the pedal.

What gives? And where do I go from here?

Thanks

 

[oldmisterbill]

Possible sticking calliper??????

 

[Russ]

How well are the rear brakes adjusted? Improperly adjusted rear brakes puts a lot more pressure on the already mediocre front brakes. Also the front rubber hoses are known to deteriorate over time causing the hose to collapse keeping the pressure in the caliper after the petal has been released.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I agree, look at the rear brakes first. And keep them adjsuted. the auto adjusters don't really work that well. You nedda manually adjust them. IF that doesn't do it for ya, look at the proportioning vavle.

 

[Agnem]

I'd be inclined to throw new calipers and hoses at it, as well as a set of Motorcraft rotors.

 

[towcat]

I'd be inclined to throw new calipers and hoses at it, as well as a set of Motorcraft rotors.

+1
and check your rear adjustment too.

 

[dsblack]

rear seems to be adjusted ok, and working. they will lock up on gravel like the front does. the adjustment seems ok also.
I have the new rotors on it, I will have to get them turned. Are the motocraft rotors any better than the NAPA premium that just went on 2 weeks ago? And go with new calipers again, and new hoses again?Got the calipers fom shucks... (note to self. Stop buying cheap parts?)

this all happens from good to bad in abut 300 miles, and to teeth rattling in about 1000 or so. But when the rotors are tuned, everything goes back to good.... Argh!

 

[krawlr]

You also have to make sure everything "floats" properly. The grooves for the "pin rails" that hold the calipers in need to be cleaned and lubed with caliper grease.

Also where the pad edges meet the caliper body is often overlooked. The surfaces in the caliper should be cleaned up and a thin coat of caliper grease put on there too making sure grease wont get on the pad material.

A thin coat of grease on the back of the pads will help transfer heat too.

Look for Permatex high temp brake caliper grease in little packets at the auto supply. Anti sieze works too except on the back of the pad that goes against the piston, swells the boot.

 

[dsblack]

I am curious if the floating thing may be the whole issue. The warping is enough to cause a vibration when going down the road. but not enough to move the pedal to move. the expedition has a movement in the pedal when applying the brake, but does not vibrate. So I will clean this all up and see if that helps.
Wire brush to clean with before lubing? And the lube goes on the outside of the rubber filled pin that holds the caliper in place, and on the back of the pad. Anywhere else after it is cleaned up?

thanks
Doug

 

[krawlr]

I like to use the front edge of a file to get the scale off then the brush. Yea Ford calls the rubber filled pins the "Pin rails" but it's usually the grooves they fit in that get all scaley and need to be cleaned up. Also the flat surfaces in the caliper where the inner pad edges rub.

 

[dwaymar]

you need to look for a rim that is either bent or out of bal this is a must when these probs develop also a bad tire will cause this to happen esspes if a belt is trying to seperate