Wahoo!!!!!!!! They're here.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Crankybait]

Got home from work Friday night late and the box with my Moose pump and injectors had arrived! I had a honey do already planned for Saturday, so Sunday is the day.. perfect weather... I've read and reread all the info sent from Conestoga and can't wait to start in the morn. I do have a couple of questions (ok....4) about the copper sealing rings. 1... They go on the bottom of the injector at the tip? 2... Will the old ring stay on the old injector during removal? 3... How do I keep the new ring on the new injector during installation? Now a question about the return line routing. 4...Conestoga sent a new return kit as apart of my order, the 2 examples of return line routing do not match how the lines are run on my engine. The top IP return goes to the cap at cyl #5, the return line to the filer come from the cap on cyl #1. Then in progression to each cap going the rear where they both sides go to a tee at the rear. Which routing works best?? This is a factory turbo 7.3L. I will be following Conestoga's instructions to the "T"...

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

it's Christmas in the fall!

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[79jasper]

You got plenty of time to read the stickies on injector replacement. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Crankybait]

OK...OK..I just read Mel's article and found all the answers... I'm going to bed now so I can start early.... Hoping to have a good running truck tomorrow night.....

 

[IDIoit]

the toughest part of this, is swapping the injector lines.

still not hard, but holding the IP can be a pita for the ill equipped.

have fun, and do it right.

as stated in your previous thread...
DO NOT REMOVE THE IP GEAR HOUSING.

 

[Crankybait]

It's up and running as of this morning, they were right at Conestoga that it wouldn't need much priming. The throttle response is awesome, not near as much foot pressure as with the old worn out pump. Starts much easier too. There are a few things to finish cleaning up. I have ordered another injector from the folks back east since I broke a pintle tip putting 1 in. There a are couple of the injector lines dripping at the pump. I took #3 line off to find that it has quite a wear ridge where it mounted to the old pump and wouldn't quite seat to the new pump, another line is doing the same. Does anyone make or know of a tool to remove/machine the tip to get rid of the wear ridge (I didn't think to check that out when swapping the lines)?? Otherwise I'm looking at spending much more money to replace those 2 line or maybe the entire set. Also need to get a local shop to just the final timing since unfortunately for me the closest person is 3 hrs away.

I want to express my deep appreciation to all those who answered my stupid newbie questions and pointed me in the right direction!!!!! I'm sure I'll have more in the future.. I can be of assistance to those who may have a body question. I didn't do a very good job on reporting the progress from start to almost finish(minor fuel leaks), sort of mixed them up in other posts asking questions..

Finally I want to THANK the wonderful folks at Conestoga Diesel. They took really good care of my needs and provide fantastic products..

 

[Thewespaul]

I have a set of lines if you need them

 

[icanfixall]

About the line leaks... Are you telling us the line feral is imprinted or are you telling us the fitting on the pump has an imprint on it? I'm thinking you are telling us the line feral is the part in question. If so I do not feel you can or will be able to "clean that up".. I know diesel logic sells new sets of lines or any line you want. I think angelofish also sells them in sets or by the line. Just search ebay and you will find all kinds of them. But know this. The truck and van sets are different. On the trucks the #1 line is short so the Rotunda timing adapter fits and its a longer line when on the vans. Then the #4 line is short on the vans because that's where the Rotunda timing adapter is. You can run either line on trucks or vans if you swap the Rotunda timing adapter around or swap the lines from van to truck.

 

[Crankybait]

Yes, the line feral has the imprint. I did try just for fun to see if I could do it by hand and got the worst one from a quirt to a drip. Got my local ford dealer give me a better price than walk in saving about $15 per line.. Cylinders #1 and #3 wouldn' ya know. Either side of the pump just below center. Hoping my stubby wrench will get to #3 w/o removing the others.

 

[typ4]

Ferrule. just sayin.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks Russ. My explanation was feral like in cat.. Damn spellcheck wont fix that...

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Ferrule. just sayin.

Funny how some things really bug you: no matter how many times I read it, when somebody writes "breaks" in place of "brakes" its like nails on the chalk board.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Don't quite know what you mean by a wear ridge. But the "tip" of the line has to be lined up almost perfect to the "socket" on either the IP or injector, the line nut cannot pull/push the tip into alignment. Push the tip into the socket by hand, it has to look like it fits a snug alignment, if not it has to be bent to fit.

 

[Crankybait]

The "ferrule" tip on the line has an imprint and worn area around the circumference where it meets the fitting.