Vibration on braking

[autotech84601]

Not sure what death wobble is, but it's like the front end or something in it shakes the floor, dash and column. So if that is what death wobble is, then yes. All u joints were replaced on the front driveshaft, rear driveshaft and front axle shafts. driveshafts balanced at the local 4x4 shop. I think if it was lifted I would be fighting a driveshaft angle, but it is bone stock. I measured the runout a few months ago and wrote what I found down and it was within the specs available on prodemand. That much I do remember. I really only started to drive the truck again as I want it to be camper trailer ready for the summer and would like to work the kinks out of it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Death wobble is front end that violently shakes side to side.

Jack up front end...remove tre from pitman arm and tre so both wheels can be moved independantpy in their full arc and no steering box interference. Any binding?

How abot steering gear is it smooth?

How about rag joint to steering gear?

How about U joint on D shaft at steering column?

AGAIN....did you tighten bolts when weight on truck or up in air? Truck must be at rest supporting own weight when you tighten suspension bolts.

Yes spring eye and shackle bushing CAN cause this and being the 6 bushing not replaced I would be suspect...so much for not ggoing in 2 x...

Get a measurement with truck on ground....of wheel to wheel centerline front to rear...is diff in at angle?

Add 5lbs air to RH front tyre...see if changes...10 max...

Get an angle finder and determine if both knuckles are in spec for caster.

JM7.3CW

 

[autotech84601]

I have never removed the front springs only the differential. Wouldn't the alignment specs show the caster angle as well because it all came in normally. The steering gear is smooth, I just checked after popping off drag link. Put on the lift and both wheels turn not connected to steering gear box smoothly.The rag joint does not have any excessive play either. Hmm I'm stumped.

 

[Black dawg]

got a video of the vibration??

 

[riotwarrior]

Wheels true?

Swap front n reat tyres see if chqnges?

My best theory spring bushings

 

[autotech84601]

I swapped tires, no change. I will be pulling springs out to do spring bushings front and rear. I am trying to find someone with a go pro so I can video the front end to see what's going on. As far as the spring bushings, and I am replacing shackles as well, does anyone have a preference for polyurethane two piece bushings over one peice solid?

 

[laserjock]

I think most of them are 2 piece with a sleeve. Energy suspension seems to get a lot of votes. That's what I used. Can't comment on performance yet but installation was easy enough and customer service was outstanding. Good luck. Spring bushings is one of those miserable jobs. There is an article floating around here on a slick way to do it inserting hacksaw blade through the bolt hole and cutting the metal sleeves to make it easer to get them out of the eyes. They are a ****** when they are clean let alone rusty. I have had reasonable success using a ball joint press to get everything out down to the outer sleeve and then air hammer/chisel works pretty well on it usually.

 

[crash-harris]

I can vouch for the performance of the energy suspension bushings. Things are great. Even if you find a 1 piece poly leaf spring bushing, get the 2 piece instead. You know why when you go to remove the metal sleeved rubber ones.

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, two piece are easier.
When I did my track bar, I used a Sawzall or something to cut the sleeves out.

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[riotwarrior]

Drill right through over and over all way around bushing sleeve....kinda like cartride holes in revolver...makes pressing bushings out much better.

Get new slipper pads too for springs...they go on ends between leaves...makes mkre better smoother ride.

Shocks good?

 

[autotech84601]

Drill right through over and over all way around bushing sleeve....kinda like cartride holes in revolver...makes pressing bushings out much better.

Get new slipper pads too for springs...they go on ends between leaves...makes mkre better smoother ride.

Shocks good?

Shocks are brand new less than 2000 miles on them as well as steering stabilizer shock. Ideas for where to get slipper pads? I will be tearing into this soon and want to get it all together. Do it right or not at all. It's funny the truck does not look like much but I have put hours and hours and hours of sweat and fun into this thing!!! I love it!

 

[jwalterus]

The rotors are brand new and replaced because I originally thought the vibration was coming from the rotors. They were checked for runout and found to be good.

I've been learning a lot of little piddly shat from the auto techs since I'm doing maintenance at the dealerships now.
Were your rotors checked while they were on the vehicle or off?
I have found out that new basic level rotors are warped fresh from the factory over 50% of the time, unless you are getting drilled/slotted rotors or other high-end parts, they aren't machined to the hub worth a rat's behind.
When they do a brake job with new rotors, they use the on-vehicle lathe to turn them first thing, on average they cut 10 thou both sides, I saw a job the other day that took 45 thou front and 20 thou rear to true up.

It was kinda interesting seeing the lathe cut 10 thou at a time and skip big sections of the rotor that weren't even being cut at first, but they showed true when they were on the tool room brake lathe.

quoted from a hunter engineering service bulletin:
“When you pull a rotor off of the vehicle, you may have turned it perfectly off the vehicle and then you install it back on the vehicle. Because it wasn’t installed the same way, you could unknowingly induce run out. You will, in essence, have undone some of your efforts.”

 

[autotech84601]

I've been learning a lot of little piddly shat from the auto techs since I'm doing maintenance at the dealerships now.
Were your rotors checked while they were on the vehicle or off?
I have found out that new basic level rotors are warped fresh from the factory over 50% of the time, unless you are getting drilled/slotted rotors or other high-end parts, they aren't machined to the hub worth a rat's behind.
When they do a brake job with new rotors, they use the on-vehicle lathe to turn them first thing, on average they cut 10 thou both sides, I saw a job the other day that took 45 thou front and 20 thou rear to true up.

It was kinda interesting seeing the lathe cut 10 thou at a time and skip big sections of the rotor that weren't even being cut at first, but they showed true when they were on the tool room brake lathe.

quoted from a hunter engineering service bulletin:
“When you pull a rotor off of the vehicle, you may have turned it perfectly off the vehicle and then you install it back on the vehicle. Because it wasn’t installed the same way, you could unknowingly induce run out. You will, in essence, have undone some of your efforts.”

I check runout on the car only. If they needed to be turned I have a buddy with an on car lathe. I have never measured runout with the rotors off a car and will not turn rotors unless on the car. If I find runout issues I replace the rotors then measure new ones. If there is runout on the new ones then I turn. Old rotors with runout go in the garbage.

 

[Waystro]

From your description it sounds like you have a similar problem that I have with my suburban I know I know it's a Chevy but let's put that aside for now.
What I understand the following has been done. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Front end rebuilt(bushings/tie rods etc)
New front shocks
New u joints
Drivshaft balanced
New brakes/Rotors/calipers
Tires.


And your getting a Shaking dash when braking that gets worse when heavy braking Right?
At What speed is your vibration at?

 

[79jasper]

I know it can be many things, but I've only ever experienced shaking from rear brakes.

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