valve cover gaskets and a difficult to remove CDR

[Dave 001]

What do you guys think seals better......the factory rubber valve cover gaskets or no valve cover gasket and a nice, properly applied bead of silicone (like on the oil pan)? I gotta' reseal the drivers side valve cover on a van and I only want to do it once.

Also, the CDR does not want to pull out of the rubber bushing because the bushing is old, brittle, and rock hard. I don't want to break the rubber bushing and have the bottom half of the bushing fall inside the engine. Any tips? I'm gonna' try a little heat from a heat gun to soften the rubber but any tips are greatly appreciated.

Dave

 

[cpdenton]

I used victor reinz rubberized cork gaskets on my valve covers. I have been told that was original. One thin layer of permatex black just to glue the vc gasket in place on the valve cover. None in the cylinder head. I did have to re tighten the covers after a month or so, but I have had no leaks.

 

[Wyreth]

The key to sealing is just like painting. Your seal is only as good as your prep work. Get it surgically clean, even finger oil will cause problems.

For valve covers, I've always preferred the rubber gasket to cork. I run a bead of permatex black on the valve cover, press the gasket in, evenly, then run a VERY thin layer over the bottom of the gasket, and likewise the head. Allow the permatex to get tacky, but not quite dry. Then install the valve cover, but do not torque the bolts. Only barely finger tight. Wait an hour, then torque to spec.

Only problem I've found with that method for seals... good luck getting it off later.

As far as the CDR grommet, if the heat gun doesn't work. (it should, so try that first) You could wet it down with a little brake fluid, and let it sit overnight, that should soften and swell it.

 

[icanfixall]

I use the same method on the valve cover gaskets as the above posting. I have not had a leak in 7 years. As for the cdr.. I was going to suggest brake flius too. If it breaks off its not going into the engine. It will drop into the baffels in the valley pan and stay there. Theres nothing the rubber hardened can harm internally anyway. I do understand not wanting to leave anything behind..

 

[ZWilson07]

What do you guys think seals better......the factory rubber valve cover gaskets or no valve cover gasket and a nice, properly applied bead of silicone (like on the oil pan)? I gotta' reseal the drivers side valve cover on a van and I only want to do it once.

Also, the CDR does not want to pull out of the rubber bushing because the bushing is old, brittle, and rock hard. I don't want to break the rubber bushing and have the bottom half of the bushing fall inside the engine. Any tips? I'm gonna' try a little heat from a heat gun to soften the rubber but any tips are greatly appreciated.

Dave

Pretty much what was posted already is the same advice I used on mine.

Ordered felpro gaskets through rock auto, cleaned best I could, permatex copper, and was done with it.

As far as the CDR, not a whole lot of good options lol. I hate the stupid location of it on the NA engines; I was worried about the same thing and just decided to leave it. I sure as hell don't want to pull my motor just for the dang rubber sections to the CDR.

Good luck

 

[riotwarrior]

I'll be tossing in my thoughts here...

ELEPHANT snot is my much preferred method of gluing the gasket to the VC or the head myself. I've used it for many years and if you are using a gasket then it's much preferred by ME than RTV materials.

RTV is better IMHO when you are NOT using a gasket of any sorts, for example when on a pan or VC without the gasket.

Either way, bottom line as Wyreth said and I continually state, surgically or better than surgically clean! NO oil residue nadda nothing!

Elephant snot is AKA Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket, it comes in tubes and small bottles, I'd suggest getting a small bottle as it's got many uses; as well if you are doing work on yer own vehicles shop supplies are a must!

JM2CW

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Well Al.. Down here in the states elephant snot is the 3M super Weatherstrip Cement. Its a yellow color and its faboulus for holding. Its mors of a contact type feel. Apply it to both parts. Let it skin and then stick togehter but be sure where the gasket touches cause its not moving once stuck.

 

[jaluhn83]

You need a gasket for the valve covers - look at the underside of the valve cover - it's indented and uneven. RTV works best when you have a flat flush surface to seal.

I recommend against any hardening RTV on either surface of the gasket - don't need it. I'm fond of Permetex #2 which is sticky and non hardening. It does a good job of holding the gasket in place and sealing any small gaps but doesn't harden and become impossible to remove like regular RTV.

Very similar to Al's recommendation of elephant snot, but #2 is much much nicer to work with than #3 - #3 is tar and impossible to get off anything. #2 is much easier to remove and somewhat thicker.

Biggest thing it to make sure the "washers" are flipped so that they're concave - they naturally tend to become bent downward in the center when you tighten the bolts - flip them over and they work much better to spread the clamping force out.

Also do not over tighten the bolts - they just need to be snug. Overtightening crushes the gasket right around the bolt causing leakage.

 

[franklin2]

The biggest problem is getting the pass side valve cover/gasket back on without messing it up. I fought that thing for hours trying to get it off, finally did, and then had to hold my breath and hope I didn't damage my new gasket as I wiggled and twisted the valve cover back down into the head. What a great design. They fit the engine in the truck, and don't care you can't get to anything to maintain it. They do it all the time with other vehicles also.

 

[riotwarrior]

The biggest problem is getting the pass side valve cover/gasket back on without messing it up. I fought that thing for hours trying to get it off, finally did, and then had to hold my breath and hope I didn't damage my new gasket as I wiggled and twisted the valve cover back down into the head. What a great design. They fit the engine in the truck, and don't care you can't get to anything to maintain it. They do it all the time with other vehicles also.

Might I recomend some bolts with heads cut off and make them slotted, then you can just thread those in a wee bit...goop head, then gasket and slide yer covers over the home made studs...gaskets never loose alignment!

Nuff said

Al