vacuum pump

[JPR]

Has anyone taken a failed vacuum pump apart to see what fails? Just curious.

Today, the vacuum pump lost enough vacuum that the a/c & heat controls are no longer working. Seems silly that the first one made it 13 years and the replacement did not quite make 3 years.

 

[h2odrx]

did the light come on? and did the brakes fail?

 

[JPR]

yes, the light was coming on, but since it is no longer a safety issue, I disconnected it last weekend.

Did it cause a brake problem? A few weeks back I pulled in somewhere stopped and went to back up, no power assist. Typical vacuum pump failure, not enough volume, so it takes 20 to 30 seconds to recover. That is what got me started on the hydro-boost conversion (I still need to install the F450 ps pump housing).

 

[h2odrx]

I see i need to test my warning thingy cause I'm not sure it works and the controls for the vent are stuck on defrost!

 

[Headerpower]

I have my brake light come on once in a while, then goes back off. I wonder if the pump pulley slips sometimes- mine is the serpentine belt system, runs on the smooth side of the belt, and the pully is very shiny. That or an intermittent leak in what??

 

[82F100SWB]

When mine failed, the cover that held the lube must have came off, then the cam on the shaft wore the end off of the plunger that moves the diaghphram.

 

[Agnem]

The last one I had fail, developed a bad bearing. Darndest thing was I had to get rid of it because of the awful noise. It still pumped just fine!

 

[oldmisterbill]

The last one that failed for me was because of stress cracks in the diaphram cover .

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

Has anyone taken a failed vacuum pump apart to see what fails? Just curious.

Today, the vacuum pump lost enough vacuum that the a/c & heat controls are no longer working. Seems silly that the first one made it 13 years and the replacement did not quite make 3 years.

aftermarket replacement parts are not as good as oem.
see it on everything from bearings to belts to starters to alternators to plugs and wires.

 

[Agnem]

Another believer!

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

but try selling oem parts at double the cost of aftermarket.
its hard both at the parts store and at the shop.
everybody wants the cheapest and wants it installed for free.
hell I was watching a vac pump for a psd on fleabay, 29.99 bid, 101 buyitnow, well the pump is 110 or so from the parts store. somebody hit nthe buyitnow

 

[2manydsls]

I've found that for me here in the desert, the diaphram is usually the culprit. Usually, the brake lite stays on longer when cold. I've also found that by pumping the brakes at idle will usually bring on the lite if the pump is starting to go.
The diaphram units are interchangable with most of the GM diesels out there. When I'm at the bone yard, I pick up a few. When changing the diaphram housing, be careful not to lose any of the oil in the case. Also, the output tube is pressed in, so it can be turned to any angle.
Diesel Injection Systems in San Bernardino used to sell rebuilt diaphrams very reasonable, but I'm not sure if they still do.
Ross

 

[2manydsls]

I just talked to Dieses Injection Service, (above) and they no longer handle the rebuilt diaphrams. Sorry,
Ross

 

[JPR]

I ended up buying a Cardone reman for $109 with a one year warranty. A new one from Ford was $208 (list). I would have gone with the Ford, but the warranty was only a year too. It was a tough call, ask me in a few years if I made the correct choice.

Nice to have a/c & heat controls and cruise again.

 

[zigg]

The orginal on my '86 lasted over 10 years. Then I replaced it twice in 2 years.
Both times, it started to make a weird "tinkling" sound, and the first I pulled apart, and it was the spring that pushes the diaphram, broke in half, and when the second one made the same noise, I assumed it was the same problem.

No brakes to speak of....

New pump, and good to go.

Zigg