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KyleQ

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once you get the glow plugs go to napa and ask for some heat shrink bullet connectors, get 8 of them. make sure they fit tight on the top of the GP, and the GP wiring is 14 ga.

Exactly what I've been after! Thanks you sir! ;Sweet
 

MidnightBlade

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no prob. just did it to my truck, the factory plastic caps were all rotted to hell so i thought ok, this might work. been like that for 3 months now, no problems
 

KyleQ

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I'm thinking I can make little converters - plug one end into the factory blade and have a bullet style on the other side. If I change the plugs over I can just unplug and go - should be safe correct?
 

The Warden

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I'm thinking I can make little converters - plug one end into the factory blade and have a bullet style on the other side. If I change the plugs over I can just unplug and go - should be safe correct?
With a 6.9l glow plug controller (or a manual push-button), that should be fine...I don't think it would be a good idea with the 7.3l system because of how particular the controller is about wire gauge, resistance, etc. If you have thoughts about upgrading to the 7.3l system, I would either put a 7.3l harness in or replace the blade connectors with bullets (as opposed to the converters).

But, again, if you have the 6.9l system or a manual push-button system and don't plan to switch, go for it ;Sweet
 

KyleQ

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It's a factory 6.9 system that I'm going to convert to push button once I've got a warm place to do it :) Does the controller need to function in order for this to work? My WTS light comes on and cycles a few times after the truck starts, is that ok?

I think I bought a 7.3 GP controller with my order, looks like I wont need that...
 

The Warden

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It's a factory 6.9 system that I'm going to convert to push button once I've got a warm place to do it :) Does the controller need to function in order for this to work? My WTS light comes on and cycles a few times after the truck starts, is that ok?

I think I bought a 7.3 GP controller with my order, looks like I wont need that...
It depends...I've seen/heard of push-button systems done in two ways:

First way is to remove the controller altogether and control the plugs strictly by hand. This is the most common way, and I actually had my truck set up like that for a while...and, even with being as careful as possible, I burnt out two sets of Berus doing it. With this method, you remove the purple wire on the fender-mounted relay and run a line from a 12 volt source, through the button, to the terminal on the relay where the purple wire was.

The second way is to cut the purple wire at some point and run a wire from the controller side of the purple wire to the button, and the other side to the relay. This will make it so that the controller still controls how long the plugs are cycled on and off as long as the button is depressed...this keeps the controller functionality while allowing you to cut off power between the controller and the relay if the controller sticks ON.

I know that some dislike the 7.3l system, but after having dealt with all three, I think that a 7.3l system with clean connections and the appropriate wire gauge is the easiest and most fool-proof method. With that said, I would recommend (based on experience, unfortunately) sticking with a stock 7.3l wiring harness. I tried to build my own, using 12 or 10 gauge wire running to each plug...and ended up with so little resistance in the glow plug circuit that my controller thinks the plugs are already hot and only cycles them for one second at a time even when the engine's icy-cold.

If you're firmly set on a manual push-button, I would recommend getting 12 volt constant-duty plugs, so you can run a single long cycle. I'm not well-versed in this setup, but if you do a search, you should be able to find some info...
 

KyleQ

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The second way is to cut the purple wire at some point and run a wire from the controller side of the purple wire to the button, and the other side to the relay. This will make it so that the controller still controls how long the plugs are cycled on and off as long as the button is depressed...this keeps the controller functionality while allowing you to cut off power between the controller and the relay if the controller sticks ON.

I plan on doing it this way - I can hold the button and retain the factory power cycles and the after burn cycles and never worry about it melting the plugs. My truck would start when it was cold until I noticed that light was on when I was driving - I've got no working plugs anymore.
 

OLDBULL8

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Anyone notice on the GP controller 1811059C92 is $32.16 on the Ford parts and on the IH truck parts the same number 1811059C92 is a $138.42, lets hope someone there made a mistake on the price for Ford truck. I'll know when I get mine wether it's the electronic or just the relay controller.
 

KyleQ

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Anyone notice on the GP controller 1811059C92 is $32.16 on the Ford parts and on the IH truck parts the same number 1811059C92 is a $138.42, lets hope someone there made a mistake on the price for Ford truck. I'll know when I get mine wether it's the electronic or just the relay controller.

Yeah, I ordered one of those too LOL Gona work sweet on my 6.9 system... oh wait, whoops :rolleyes:
 

Darrin Tosh

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Anyone notice on the GP controller 1811059C92 is $32.16 on the Ford parts and on the IH truck parts the same number 1811059C92 is a $138.42, lets hope someone there made a mistake on the price for Ford truck. I'll know when I get mine wether it's the electronic or just the relay controller.

Yup I bought one of those, well see what we get,....:popcorn
 

1994Diesel

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@The Warden: Thanks for your opinion/advice about the speakers, I figured they are crappy speakers... just daydreaming about them being a fifty dollar set. :)


SO does anyone know or can make an educated guess on what code the injectors are???
 

1994Diesel

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@The Warden: Thanks for your opinion/advice about the speakers, I figured they are crappy speakers... just daydreaming about them being sony or kenwood speakers. :)


SO does anyone know or can make an educated guess on what code the injectors are???
 
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