Turbo v non-turbo mileage?

[jhenegh]

Best I've see was the day I bought my truck, 17.1mpg croming from Madison, WI to Lafayette, IN in August (hot).

Ever since the D60 swap (raised front end), bull moose, intercooler and the steel flatbed, I'm happy to EVER see 16. Usually closer to 13

 

[Black dawg]

My trucks mpg stayed about the same turbo and after turbo. Pulling really heavy loads though mpg is slightly better and get there much faster.

My truck generally is at about 14 mpg average, and about 17 on the highway. Towing...anywhere from about 8-12 depending on weight.

I have seen an honest 22 mpg out of this truck, but this was driving for almost two days straight not being shut off, and 65 mph. But that is only 1 time in 16 years.

 

[Selahdoor]

I want to say thanks to everyone who has posted.

I learned some things that I needed to know.

I'll try to keep this nutshelled, instead of writing a novella here...


I don't know what the rear ratio is. I suspect this truck is frankensteined. Which leads to the fear that the rear and front ratios may be different. I'll find out, once the weather has gotten better here. Probably about mid-summer.

I don't 'put my foot into it', when I am driving. I drive pretty much like a granpa. Only giving it enough to maintain speed. And I TRY to keep my speed to around 50, as much as I can. I try to drive, to save fuel, not to take advantage of 'power'.

I go the speed limit if there is other traffic on the road. If there is no other traffic, I'll coast it along at 50, so I m turning closer to 2500rpms. If there is other traffic, I cruise at 60, at right around 3000rpms.

If I had turbo, I would drive no differently. I am not tempted by 'power'. I like it there, if needed. But as a rule, I don't 'put my foot into it'.

~~~

What my goal here, is, is to figure out what is the best bang for the buck, in changes or improvements that I can make. And I will be spending more time here, reading, and learning. Hopefully by mid-summer, I'll have enough information to be able to actually make a difference with as few mistakes as possible.

I will not be spending thousands of dollars to save a few dollars. The bottom line for everything that I do, is going to be the cost. I simply cannot afford to just toss money at the truck. (As an example. I am old. The truck sits prety high. These old bones are having a hard time climbing in and out of the truck. I could really use a step! Most of you may think nothing of going out and buying a step. I can't afford it, and have been looking for a free one. Meanwhile, I look like a clown, and am hurting my back climbing in and out of the truck. )

From what I can tell here, now... My best bet is to start with trying to 'tune' what I have.

I believe there are missing parts! Definitely some on top of the engine. Possibly some going to the transmission. Etc.

What IS there, could possibly be 'tuned' better. Like for instance, the 'timing' of the pump. Whatever that means.

Once I have gone over the truck and learned what I can, and figured out exactly what I have, and am working with... And once I have 'tuned' as much as I can with what I have... Then I am thinking the first major change I am going to consider is a shift add-on. Whatever it is called, that is attached to the back end of a C6, to give you overdrive.

 

[chris142]

I get consistant 12.5 mpg in town. Where do you live? I may still have my running boards sonewhere

 

[Selahdoor]

I get consistant 12.5 mpg in town. Where do you live? I may still have my running boards sonewhere

I'm thinking that once I can actually get to work on it again, I might have the hope of getting at least that much just with replacing missing parts, and 'tuning' it...

I live in Washington state. About 65 miles north and east of Seattle. It would probably cost more in shipping from SoCal, than if I just went and bought cheap "loop" steps. Thank you very much for the offer, though.

 

[fsmyth]

I want to say thanks to everyone who has posted.

I learned some things that I needed to know.

I'll try to keep this nutshelled, instead of writing a novella here...




I don't know what the rear ratio is. I suspect this truck is frankensteined. Which leads to the fear that the rear and front ratios may be different. I'll find out, once the weather has gotten better here. Probably about mid-summer.

I don't 'put my foot into it', when I am driving. I drive pretty much like a granpa. Only giving it enough to maintain speed. And I TRY to keep my speed to around 50, as much as I can. I try to drive, to save fuel, not to take advantage of 'power'.

I go the speed limit if there is other traffic on the road. If there is no other traffic, I'll coast it along at 50, so I m turning closer to 2500rpms. If there is other traffic, I cruise at 60, at right around 3000rpms.

If I had turbo, I would drive no differently. I am not tempted by 'power'. I like it there, if needed. But as a rule, I don't 'put my foot into it'.

~~~

What my goal here, is, is to figure out what is the best bang for the buck, in changes or improvements that I can make. And I will be spending more time here, reading, and learning. Hopefully by mid-summer, I'll have enough information to be able to actually make a difference with as few mistakes as possible.

I will not be spending thousands of dollars to save a few dollars. The bottom line for everything that I do, is going to be the cost. I simply cannot afford to just toss money at the truck. (As an example. I am old. The truck sits prety high. These old bones are having a hard time climbing in and out of the truck. I could really use a step! Most of you may think nothing of going out and buying a step. I can't afford it, and have been looking for a free one. Meanwhile, I look like a clown, and am hurting my back climbing in and out of the truck. )

From what I can tell here, now... My best bet is to start with trying to 'tune' what I have.

I believe there are missing parts! Definitely some on top of the engine. Possibly some going to the transmission. Etc.

What IS there, could possibly be 'tuned' better. Like for instance, the 'timing' of the pump. Whatever that means.

Once I have gone over the truck and learned what I can, and figured out exactly what I have, and am working with... And once I have 'tuned' as much as I can with what I have... Then I am thinking the first major change I am going to consider is a shift add-on. Whatever it is called, that is attached to the back end of a C6, to give you overdrive.

Sounds pretty much like my environment.
Invest in the step. Your body will thank you.
Until then, try to park with a curb on your side.
And the overdrive, whatever the means, will help. Best fueling will be at 2200-2500 RPM.
The C6 does not have a lock-up converter, which would make a very big difference.
Read about the TPS - a firmer shift will help some.
On a side note, this engine seems to love WMO, and is not as picky about the mix.
Might want to look into that.
A clean air filter will also make a difference. Your goal should be as little smoke as possible.
Watch your tire pressure. That will also make a noticable difference.

These trucks are a pretty good match for us old farts. And drive like a car, compared to
my other diesel trucks.

 

[Selahdoor]

Sounds pretty much like my environment.
Invest in the step. Your body will thank you.
Until then, try to park with a curb on your side.
And the overdrive, whatever the means, will help. Best fueling will be at 2200-2500 RPM.
The C6 does not have a lock-up converter, which would make a very big difference.
Read about the TPS - a firmer shift will help some.
On a side note, this engine seems to love WMO, and is not as picky about the mix.
Might want to look into that.
A clean air filter will also make a difference. Your goal should be as little smoke as possible.
Watch your tire pressure. That will also make a noticable difference.

These trucks are a pretty good match for us old farts. And drive like a car, compared to
my other diesel trucks.

I have actually been thinking about welding up some kind of step, myself. (That I can then, bolt on.) And yes, I always try to park next to a curb. Or at home, next to a big block of wood. (Which I have been considering running a rope through, to have a 'carry-along' step. )(And the carry along step could do double duty, running my driver's side rear wheel up onto at the gas station, to make filling a bit easier. )

Yup. 2200 is what I will be shooting for. Hopefully, eventually I'll be turning that at 60mph.

I wonder if I can GET a lockup convertor that would work with the C6? (Put it on a toggle switch on the dash, and turn it on to lock it up at speed. Or tie it into a switch that is speed-activated somehow... HMMM)

TPS. Well, I know what I'll be researching first.

WMO/WVO is exactly the reason I bought this truck in the first place. Eventually I'll have something going, on that front as well. I'll still be trying to get better mileage.

New air filter is the first thing I did, after buying the truck.

Tire pressure I am getting conflicting reports on. I have always ran high pressure on every rig I've ever had. Top of the tire's range. Maybe even a bit more. But the tires on this rig are 'industrial', for lack of the proper description. Very strong sidewalls. Made to carry a big load. And I've been told not to have to high of pressure in them...

Absolutely a good match here! I love this truck! I live where I HAVE to have 4x4. In the mountains, way out in the sticks. Mud in the summer, snow in the winter. Best 4x4 that I have ever had before this was an 88 Isuzu Trooper. It went through where no other 4x4 I'd had before that, would. But this winter, I got this truck into a couple of situations where the Trooper had been stuck for hours, before. Digging and digging and digging... This thing.. I hopped out, tossed about 5 shovels of snow out of the way... Then drove right out.

 

[Selahdoor]

Ok, TPS, is too short a term, for search, here.

Is that short for "Throttle Position Sensor"?

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Ok, TPS, is too short a term, for search, here.

Is that short for "Throttle Position Sensor"?

Yes

 

[MTKirk]

WMO/WVO is exactly the reason I bought this truck in the first place. Eventually I'll have something going, on that front as well. I'll still be trying to get better mileage

I run WVO and biodiesel and have so much of it I'd don't care what my mileage is (got friends in the fried food biz). But; I think it's somewhere around 11 at 65mph & about 2500rpm (truck in sig. 4.10). I recommend going to WMO blended with gasoline because it doesn't require any modification to your truck, and people will beg you to take it from them. Still you will need to invest around $1000 in equipment to get the oil clean enough to not kill your Injection pump.

 

[fsmyth]

I run WVO and biodiesel and have so much of it I'd don't care what my mileage is (got friends in the fried food biz). But; I think it's somewhere around 11 at 65mph & about 2500rpm (truck in sig. 4.10). I recommend going to WMO blended with gasoline because it doesn't require any modification to your truck, and people will beg you to take it from them. Still you will need to invest around $1000 in equipment to get the oil clean enough to not kill your Injection pump.

That's called W85 (15% RUG / 85% WMO).
And you are fine with 2 micron filtering in this application, IMHO. No centrifuge necessary.
Ditto for my older tractors and equipment.
(I DO centrifuge the WMO for the dodge - it's a bit more picky).
Nowhere near $1000. More like $150, if you have to buy filter heads and filters.

 

[Selahdoor]

I've heard another option on the WVO, is...

Two tanks. Fill the rear tank with straight WVO. Fill the front with regular diesel.

Start the truck on the front tank. Run it on the front tank for a couple of miles, or until good and warmed up.

Now switch to the back tank, and you can run that, the rest of the day.

About two miles before you get home, switch back to the front tank. That way, by the time you turn it off for the day, the system is full of regular diesel again.

Lather, rinse, repeat...

Of course, if you are commuting to a job, you'll be switching tanks before you get to work, and have to let the rig sit for 8 or more hours... Then back again, on the way home, etc...

But I'm retired. I start the truck in the morning, go to town, and I don't let the truck sit long anywhere, before I am starting it back up again.


~~~


Around here WVO is a rare commodity.

As I said before, I live in the mountains. Way out in the sticks.

Within a reasonable distance from here, there are too many people already looking for it, and too few places getting rid of it.

Still, I plan to give it a go. It will be a while before I get started, though.

Filter housings I can get at Tractor Supply. Plenty of the other necessary parts as well. Finding good filters may be the hardest/most expensive part. If I decide to centrifuge, I'll build my own.

 

[jayro88]

I have looked into running straight WVO as well as making my own Bio. The idea of having 2 tanks....1 with WVO and 1 with diesel is correct, but it is not quite that simple. Our diesel tanks are not compatible with WVO and certian parts of our fueling system are not either. You also have to heat the WVO up so that the viscosity is correct. This requires adding some items (like a coolant circuit to the WVO tank and possibly a heated pick up tube).

Bio requires no alteration to our fueling system, but requires building/buying a setup t make it. Plus their are additional costs in materials and time for making the bio.

Either way can be done with what looks like about the same amount of $$$, just depends on what route you want to choose.

 

[fsmyth]

Don't know if I would ever get into WVO or biodiesel. Both seem like a lot of trouble.
I use WMO, because it is a set-and-forget process. Simpler. Just needs time.

 

[MTKirk]

I've heard another option on the WVO, is...

Two tanks. Fill the rear tank with straight WVO. Fill the front with regular diesel.

Start the truck on the front tank. Run it on the front tank for a couple of miles, or until good and warmed up.

Now switch to the back tank, and you can run that, the rest of the day.

About two miles before you get home, switch back to the front tank. That way, by the time you turn it off for the day, the system is full of regular diesel again.

Lather, rinse, repeat...

Of course, if you are commuting to a job, you'll be switching tanks before you get to work, and have to let the rig sit for 8 or more hours... Then back again, on the way home, etc...

But I'm retired. I start the truck in the morning, go to town, and I don't let the truck sit long anywhere, before I am starting it back up again.


~~~


Around here WVO is a rare commodity.

As I said before, I live in the mountains. Way out in the sticks.

Within a reasonable distance from here, there are too many people already looking for it, and too few places getting rid of it.

Still, I plan to give it a go. It will be a while before I get started, though.

Filter housings I can get at Tractor Supply. Plenty of the other necessary parts as well. Finding good filters may be the hardest/most expensive part. If I decide to centrifuge, I'll build my own.

My WVO vehicles are both two tank systems, pretty close to what you described, but far more complicated and expensive. And yes; you have to get the oil to around 160F before it goes to the injection pump. Bio-diesel production is fairly complicated, messy, and can be quite dangerous; but, in all but cold conditions our trucks will run just fine on it without modification (if you have all bio compatible hoses/o-rings in your fuel system).

For the situation you described WMO would be a MUCH better option. I would still plan on a centrifuge, might cost a little more up front but over the long haul it will save on filters. Also the diesel craft/fluid driven types are very effective at de-watering, which is vital to injection pump survival.