Turbo removal to fix fuel leak

[kcdigiacomo]

Still trying to get this done BUT cannot find everything I need to remove turbo! Looking for step by step instructions I have watched 6 different Youtube videos and almost everyone is different and covers a different part that one of the other missed.

Where do I go for HELP?

 

[79jasper]

Well what year truck?
Pretty straight forward.

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[kcdigiacomo]

1995 7.3

 

[kcdigiacomo]

1995 7.3L

 

[79jasper]

Little harder than the newer 7.3.
There's 4 bolts that go through the pedestal. The back driver side one is a pita. Also need to take the turbo to exhaust flange (2 bolts up top, two nuts down lower) and the up pipe flange bolts loose.
Why do you need to pull the turbo for a fuel leak?
You don't need to. You can pull the pump and even replace the fuel line olives without touching the turbo.

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[kcdigiacomo]

Let me try then

 

[79jasper]

And if you do that, you'll need new pedestal orings.
Just remove the fuel filter housing. 2 bolts and they're different sizes. Lol then just cut the rubber lines and replace them.
The banjo bolt at the back of the fuel pump is like inch and a quarter. I've used a socket and just take the engine lifting eyelet first, or you can try a box wrench.

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[kcdigiacomo]

So I removed the fuel filter can and got the pump up from the hole but cannot seem to manipulate the tubes coming off the back out. Do I have to take out that banjo bolt and will they come out after that?

 

[79jasper]

Yes, banjo bolt has to come out. Also you won't be able to pull that line out without damaging it.
You can swap the olive seals just by taking each one loose at the head.

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[kcdigiacomo]

Well I got the pump out and although I am not a mechanic but can removed and replace parts, I don't believe that the piston at the bottom of the pump should freely come out or am I wrong? It was fortunately sitting in the hole waiting for me to pluck it out and did not fall in if that is possible. I did feel like the lines that feed the injectors may have bent a little but being that its brass will it be ok?
So now that I have the pump, bowl and regulator removed. Should I rebuild the regulator? the bowl was full of crap and really nasty chunks of rust and dirt came out. I used brake cleaner to spray and clean the inside the best I could without disassembling the entire thing. Anything else should I do while i have this out? I REALLY dont want to do this again, taken me probably 2 hrs to this point.

 

[79jasper]

Yep, takes awhile.
Yes, the piston is always loose like that.
The lines are steel, should be alright. Just make sure you get those copper washers back in for the banjo bolt.
That seems about normal for the bowl being full of crap. I swear mine had gravel in it. I would remove the fuel heater, disassemble the regulator and clean it all real good. There's a screen or two that get clogged.
Would be good to do the fuel bowl "rebuild." Basically just replacing all the orings and the drain valve. (Common leak point)
Also the filter restriction sensors are known to leak. My choice was to remove it and just plug the hole. (Wasn't going to spend 80 on a sensor that's known to fail over and over again, when it's not that important)

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[kcdigiacomo]

How do I properly reinstall the pump? and what style wrench is best to get at the banjo bolt? got it loose with craftsmen open end but there is not enough room to tighten it back up even to just snug it would be challenge.

 

[79jasper]

Try a socket and ratchet or actual wrench then.
You could probably use some grease or something on the piston to keep it from dropping out.

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[OLDBULL8]

Here's how to do it. You can get all the parts there also.

http://www.dieselorings.com/

http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/OBSFuelBowlRebuild.pdf