Similar steering issues in my truck, since then completely fixed.
Truck was pulling to the right and steering wheel did not return to center, plus there was a loud clunk when turning all the way to the left (to the stop) when pulling out of my parking space and making a U-turn on a narrow street. Also during that maneuver the front wheels were not tracking correctly leaving black rubber marks on the pavement.
I took it to Les Schwab for an alignment inspection. I replaced everything on the punch list with Moog parts from Rock Auto Parts (older surplus not made in China). That consis3ted of all new tie rod ends and center link. THEN I got the alignment done. The issues had improved but not by much.
Long story short. I took the truck back under alignment warranty 3 times, but to a different shop location that I was familiar with and I asked for one of "the old guys" who knows about these trucks to have a look.
After about 10 seconds under the truck he came out and said "STEERING BOX IS COMPLETELY SHOT. (no adjustments would fix it). The employee who inspected it the fist time, wa a young guy, 28 y.o as I recall who entirely missed a completely shot steering gear box. So, I ordered a 'new' Motorcraft steering box and rag joint etc. and did the work. I want to show you something I found, shown in a photo further below.
I took the truck back for a realignment with the new steering box installed. IT STILL PULLED TO THE RIGHT. I took it back and asked the manager to look it over. He test drove it, then put it on a hoist/rack for inspection. Two worn caster/camber bushings needed to be replaced. He ordered them, I came back in two days AND MY TRUCK WAS FINALLY FIXED! It steered and drove like a brand new truck and I was very happy about that!
This is what I want to show to anyone reading this topic. At the upper end of the steering shaft under the hood there is a rubber boot that had split from age and use, probably years ago. Insid3e that rubber boot is a Universal Joint. Maybe only tilt columns have that U-joint, I don't recall:
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That U-joint was originally packed with grease inside that rubber boot. The old grease was in very bad condition, mostly dried out and hard.
Like any U-joint connecting two shafts, it moves on two axes. Moving it back and forth on one axis it was very difficult to move and on the other axis it was very very difficult to move, and pretty much locked up (including some rust and a rough spot which I finally worked out of it).
I am thinking that this dirty and restricted U-joint could have contributed to the failure of the steering wheel to return to center.
I used dental tools and a small screwdriver to dig most of the old dried grease out and then soaked it in transmission fluid and diesel fuel for about 24 hours. Then for most of a day (about 6-8 hrs) I kept digging and brushing and washing all of the dirt and crud out of there using a coffee can with diesel and trans. fluid for solvent. I kept working the U-joint on both axes until it was freed up, clean and working well with no restriction. The diesel fuel would have worked fine as a solvent without transmission fluid but that's the mix that I had available to use.
After it was CLEAN I packed it full with Red Mobile One Synthetic Grease (I think it's wheel bearing grease) and then re-installed it in my truck. I did not replace the rubber boot although I would have tried if I could find a proper size rubber boot but I couldn't find one. These were not a replaceable part from Ford.
BTW, the steering wheel not recentering could be due to a worn out steering box.