Towing upgrades

Julianq7

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What are the benefits of a smoke stack for towing? Are there any benefits to it besides looks? Also what else would make my 88 f350 idi better at pulling a load? Thanks
 

79jasper

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Many things you can do for power. Turbo, timing, new ip, new injectors, cam, smaller tires, lower gears, etc.
There's no benefits of a stack. You'll find most here will be against it. It'll just be louder. And if you're pulling a camper, it'll get covered in soot, unless you run a 15 foot tall stack.

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nj_m715

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there's a few benefits, you're more likely to have someone get burned on the pipe, you loose bed space and, like jasper said, you can blow soot everywhere.
 

79jasper

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Had my nephew almost burn his hand when I had mine.
But the psd runs pretty cool, so it wasn't too hot.
Also I've seen stuff melt on them.

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jetfly12

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The reason why I run a stack is because I hated puffing some smoke into cars in traffic with the stock exhaust. the smaller diameter makes the velocity faster and if I really got on it, the smoke would easily shoot across a lane coming off a stop. Now with a stack, I do not have to worry about that, instead it goes up into the air and out of the way, not having to worry about unintentionally ******* people off. I would also agree with others that it will be louder in the cab, but I just love the sound these IDI's make. In conclusion, a smoke stack does not enhance towing performance. If you have an aftermarket turbo, eliminate any back pressure and restrictions post turbo to see better spool times and possibly a tad lower EGT's.
 

The Bus

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If your pulling with an auto transmission, definitely want to install an external trans oil cooler from what I've read here. I think there is some info on this and I believe temp gauge too in here somewhere.

I believe I've also read about a pyro/exhaust temp gauge. Don't want to push it too hard.

Then there is the hydro boost for braking if your truck does not have it already.

A lot of posters here have modified their trucks to make them not only stronger but more reliable. I start mentioning some of them, but I'd leave others out and feel bad for doing it. :sorry:

But don't worry they'll start chiming in like clockwork. :D

Like FORDF250HDXLT's backup cam installation on his log truck - one of the coolest mods that really didn't cost a lot at all.
 
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austin92

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Stack won't make power, just change where the smoke goes lol. Lots you can do to help towing though. Add a turbo, water/**** injection, lower axle gears, and lots of other things. What are you towing with your truck, what's it have aftermarket currently, and what do you expect of it?


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

Thewespaul

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Best thing you can do for yourself is start with the basics: Removing restriction to your IDI "air pump"

This means modifying your intake and exhaust so it flows the air in and out of your engine more efficiently.
Typically guys will just remove the muffler on the factory exhaust and weld a pipe in its place, this makes for killer sound NA and is pretty much guaranteed to give you power gains as the factory muffler is very restrictive and gets packed full of carbon over the years, however there are still good gains to be made by a full exhaust system that elimanates some terrible oem designs like the factory Y pipe.

Next is the intake. The factory intake isnt too bad, some will remove the soup bowl and call it good but in hotter climates I really recommend you make a cold air intake so the engine breaths cold air from outside the engine bay. This will also give you noticeable gains in EGTs.

Did I say EGTs?!

Yes with modifying a diesel the biggest limiting factor are the EGTs- the Exhaust Gas Temperature. This will read what temperature the gasses flowing out of your engine reach and with our engines, 1200* is the LIMIT. Buy yourself a pyrometer and install it properly to save yourself a melted piston.

So, you now have a better flowing engine with denser, cooler air feeding it. Now its time for MORE FUEL!

Here is an excellent writeup on how to do that...

http://www.dieselhub.com/performance/idi-injection-pump.html

Make sure you adjust one flat at a time.

Timing also plays a huge role in the performance in these engines, by our research they perform best at 8*-9* BTDC

Get yourself a timing light and an adapter or go through our timing register to see if there is a member near you who would time the truck for you. icanfixall also has a timing meter renting program.
 

Julianq7

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its all stock right now, it came with the 4.10 gear ratio in the rear. its a dually so I guess that helps too. just looking to pull a horse trailer with a few horses. and a gooseneck trailer to haul some hay as well. can these trucks handle that weight stock?
 

Julianq7

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Best thing you can do for yourself is start with the basics: Removing restriction to your IDI "air pump"

This means modifying your intake and exhaust so it flows the air in and out of your engine more efficiently.
Typically guys will just remove the muffler on the factory exhaust and weld a pipe in its place, this makes for killer sound NA and is pretty much guaranteed to give you power gains as the factory muffler is very restrictive and gets packed full of carbon over the years, however there are still good gains to be made by a full exhaust system that elimanates some terrible oem designs like the factory Y pipe.

Next is the intake. The factory intake isnt too bad, some will remove the soup bowl and call it good but in hotter climates I really recommend you make a cold air intake so the engine breaths cold air from outside the engine bay. This will also give you noticeable gains in EGTs.

Did I say EGTs?!

Yes with modifying a diesel the biggest limiting factor are the EGTs- the Exhaust Gas Temperature. This will read what temperature the gasses flowing out of your engine reach and with our engines, 1200* is the LIMIT. Buy yourself a pyrometer and install it properly to save yourself a melted piston.

So, you now have a better flowing engine with denser, cooler air feeding it. Now its time for MORE FUEL!

Here is an excellent writeup on how to do that...

http://www.dieselhub.com/performance/idi-injection-pump.html

Make sure you adjust one flat at a time.

Timing also plays a huge role in the performance in these engines, by our research they perform best at 8*-9* BTDC

Get yourself a timing light and an adapter or go through our timing register to see if there is a member near you who would time the truck for you. icanfixall also has a timing meter renting program.

So basically 1. taking the muffler off and straight pipe it to get better flow 2. get a cold air intake (and what product do you suggest?) and 3. pyrometer and turn up the injection pump.
That should give it the ability to tow bettedr correct?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Some people prefer a cowl induction intake. Some make their own cold air intake. I'd also recommend a K&N or other low restriction air filter.
 

DaveBen

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K&N maybe low restriction, but they are low filtering. They only get out the big chunks of dirt, etc. This will kill your turbo quickly.
 

Matt_INW

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Well, Mine has a Banks turbo kit (since 1992), including transmission module, 4.10 rear, pulls 10k 5th wheel pretty good (max capacity is 12 or 12.5k). The banks included a 2.75" exhaust, anything larger had a lower rate of benefit they said (at least in 1992). The banks kit came with the equivalent of a K&N filter (from banks). Had it for 25 years... I think the previous owner had the turbo repaired once in that time, been fine for me the last 2 years.

While you're at it I'd get a full set of after-market gauges. I love having mine and know where things are at and not wondering with the factor idiot gauges. Have a thorough look at your cooling system too.
 

jayro88

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So basically 1. taking the muffler off and straight pipe it to get better flow 2. get a cold air intake (and what product do you suggest?) and 3. pyrometer and turn up the injection pump.
That should give it the ability to tow bettedr correct?

If you are NA, I wouldn't recommend going the "No Muffler"route unless you specifically want it to be very loud under load. I had a new exhaust built for my '88 e250 that is NA. Something came loose in the original muffler that was used and I didn't have time to source an adequate replacement before an out of town trip. I went ahead and cut the muffler out and put a straight pipe in. The van wasn't too loud cruising unloaded on flat ground, but the second their was any load added or a big hill it would get really loud really fast. It might not be as noticeable in a truck, but the van was pretty bad. If all you want to do is get rid of the factory muffler, I would recommend replacing it with a high flow straight through design one.......but my real recommendation would be to put a new exhaust system on.

If yours is an auto, a trans cooler is highly recommended. Having real gauges is always a plus when towing. I have Coolant temp, trans temp, Oil Pressure and EGT.
 

Thewespaul

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A fair point to bring up but from my limited experience I think that may just bv a design flaw of the van. The van my parents used to have with stock muffler was still louder in the cab than my straight piped truck, but its all very specific to someone's conditions.
 
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